A A ERUVINCE 0F ALBERTA VM WIT: 3?s. I Inquiry into the deaths of J. Townsend Baylis Richard J. Baylis David Chapin Miles 0. Marble Luther Seddon William Watts Willie Wise Corporal Robert J. Wall Appeared on behalf of the Crown D. G. Prowse, Esq. Appeared_on behalf of William Herman Oeser and Oliver Donald Dickerson, Jr. W. M. Barnett, Esq, Official Court Reporter BANFF, Alberta, August 10th, 1955. 1?1 Dr. G.V. Sutton Ex. by Cpl. Wall I Ex. by Mr. Prowae Ex. by Coroner Adeline Shaw Ex. by Cpl. Wall Ex. by Mr. Prowae Ex. by Coroner Thomas Dunn Shaw Ex. by Cpl. Wall Ex. by Coroner Catherine Wallace Thompson Ex. by Cpl. Wall .7 Ex. by Mr. Prowse Ex. by Coroner Lx. by Jury Corporal F.H. Carron Ex. by Corporal Wall Ex. by Coroner G. P. Woodwarth Ex. by Cpl. Wall Ex. by Mr. Prowse Re?ex. by Cpl. Wall Ex. by Coroner Re?ex. by Cpl. Wall Re-ex. by Coroner Bertram Pittaway Ex. by Cpl. Wall Ex. by Mr. Prowee Ex. by Coroner Re?ex. by Cpl. Wall Dr. P.G. Costigan Ex. by Cpl. Wall Ex. by Coroner W. K. Perren EX. by Cpl. Wall EX. by Coroner Re-ex. by Cpl. Wall Coroner's . Jury's 3.. p: (x 107 107 110 114 116 121 122 125 128 151 141 142 144 146 165 170 171 176 176 179 205 211 219 221 224 225 235 238 240 245 249 No. of Exhibit (Cont'd) I I 8 Description of Exhibit Diagram drawn by Dr. Sutton of where boys found Certificate of registration Photograph Photograph Photograph Photograph Photograph Photograph Certificate of registration Rope Rope Doctor's Report 131 144 144 144 144 144 144 182 198 199 222 - 96 A A a PROVINCE OF ALBERTA T.O I T: Depositions taken before Dr. M.M. Cantor, one of Her Majesty's Coroners in and for the Province of Alberta, at the Masonic Lodge Hall, Banff, Alberta, this day of August, A.D., 1955, on an inquiry into the deaths of J. Townsend Baylis, Richard J. Baylis, David Chapin, Miles 0. Marble, Luther Seddon, William.Watts, and Willie Wise, as to when, where and by what means the said J. Townsend Baylis, Richard J. Baylis, David Chapin, Miles 0. Marble, Luther Seddon, William watts, and Willie Wise came to their deaths. JURX: Cyril Paris (Foreman) John Matter Alexander Macdonald Charles Fullbrook George Reid John Dignall Corporal Robert J. Wall Appeared.on.behalf of the Crown D. C. Prowse, Esq., Appeared.on.behalf of'William Herman Oeser and Oliver Donald Dickerson, Jr. W. M. Barnett, Esq., Official Court Reporter. Morning Session. 10:00 Banff, Alberta COURT ORDERLY: Order, Oyez, oyez, oyez, you good men of this district summoned to appear here this day to inquire for our Sovereign Lady The Queen as to when, where how and by what means J. Townsend Baylis, Richard J. Baylis, David Chapin, Miles 0. Marble, Luther Seddon, William Watts and Willie Wise came to their deaths. ?Answer to your names as you shall be called, every man at the first call upon the pain and peril that shall fall thereon. MR. PARIS: COURT ORDERLY: MR. WATTER: COURT ORDERLY: MR. MACDONALD: COURT ORDERLY: MR. FULLEROOK: COURT ORDERLY: MR. REID: COURT ORDERLY: MR. DIGNALL: COURT ORDERLY: the name of the Queen. THE CORDRER: on the 12th of July, 1955, Cyril Paris. Here. John,Watter. Here. Alekander Macdonald. Here. Charles Fullbrook. Here. George Reid. Here. John Dignall. Here. I declare this inquest Open in Gentlemen, you will recall that you were sworn by Coroner John Thomson 612 Exam by Cpl. Wall. to consider on behalf of our Sovereign Lady the Queen how and by what means the seven boys, that is J. Townsend Baylis, Richard J. Baylis, David Chapin, Miles 0. Marble, Luther Seddon, Willian Watts and Willie Wise came to their deaths. On the date noted evidence was taken from certain witnesses before you, those witnesses being: F.L. Ballard, P.V. Smith, A. W. Woodfield, W. H. Oeser and O. D. Dickerson. The evidence given by those persons at that time was taken down in short? hand by Mr. Malcolm, and a copy of that evidence is available today so that in the event you may wish to review some of that evidence when you consider your verdict at the end of the inquest that evidence will be available to you. Since it is transcribed I am not going to take your time to review the evidence that was given at that time, but we may refer to it in the evidence of other witnesses taken today, and it will be available for you as I indicated. Would you consider to go ahead with your witnessesm please. CORPORAL WALL: Sir, do you wish the other witnesses removed from the Courtroom? THE CORONER: I don?t think so. CORPORAL WALL: Very good, sir. Dr. Sutton. DR, GEOFFREY VICTOR SUTTON, Chateau Lake Louise, Alberta, having been first duly sworn, examined by Corporal Wall, testified as follows:? Dr. Sutton, you are a medical practitioner duly qualified and registered with the Alberta College of Physicians and fxam by Cpl. Wall. 99 Surgeons and now practicing at Chateau Lake Louise in the Province of Alberta? A Yes. 613 And I would refer your memory, doctor, to the evening of July 11th, of this year. Did you leave the Chateau Lake Louise that evening? A Yes.? 614 And where did you go, doctor? A I went to Moraine Lake, I stayed at Moraine Lake for about half-an-hour, and then went up Mount Temple. 615 Who accompanied you? A Mr, Beef Woodwarth, I think his name ishis first name? A Yes, I think so, Wes. 617 And for what purpose, doctor? A We had news that there was an accident on the mountain and we went up to see how many boys were injured, and what the trouble was. 618 You speak of boys, do you know what boys these were? A They were a group of boys from Philadelphia, and I can't remember all their names offhand. 619 Yes. There were about 20 odd boys in the camp of which some of them had gone climbing. 620 Did any of these boys go with you? A young boy Peter Smith went about a mile up the mountain. 626 629 UT.V. DULJUUIJ Exam by Cpl. hall. A . .. A A 100 And you went up to Mount Temple, ?s that oorrest? Yes. And when you got to the mountain, what time would it be, have you any idea? To the bottom of the mountain? Yes, to the bottom of the mountain. To the bottom of the mountain, oh, it would be nearly Quarter to 7. In the evening? Between half past six and quarter to 7. Yes, and what was the weather like, doctor? It was raining extremely hard. And when you got to the base of the mountain what did you do? Well, I waited for semebody to arrive to show me where to go, and meanwhile I had a short meal and tried to get some information from the Camp Leaders and the young boy, Peter Smith. Excuse me, doctor, I believe you are back at the Lodge. Yes. This is at the base of the mountain, you had travelled from the Lodge to the mountain. Oh. And when you got to the base of the mountain what did you I don't quite understand, from Moraine 650 Cpl. hall. From Moraine lake, yes, doctor. You don't call Eoreine Lake the base of the mountain? 4 . mean More is Lake lodge, doctor, and you toavelled from Moraine Lake Lodge to the base of the mountain. To the base of the steeper cart, ye Yes. There were about 10 or II boys there, and two injured boys. I treated the two injured boys and sent them down the mountain. Had these boys been involved in the avalanche? Yes, two of the boys at least, had. I don't know, most of the others had not. Yes. Do you know the names of those two boys? No, I am sorry, I don't remember that. And after attending them you went up the mountain? Yes. And who went with you? . Woodwarth, and Mr. Wes started with us, and then he returned after climbing a short ways because we saw that one of the boys was away from the rest of the party heading in the wrong direction, and he went down to guide him back, and then a few hundred feet above that we saw one of the boys coming down the mountain on the right hand side of the ski slope. He had some head injuries and abrasions on his leg, and we treated him and told him to sit down, and Mr. Wes started back up the mountain to meet 637 638 639 640 641 642 643 644 ME . Un' . Dirvacuum, EX. by Cpl. Wall. -192- this boy and take him down. Yes. Do you know the name of this boy? No, I am sorry, I don't offhand. I think, doctor-- I did. but I have forgotten, now. Yes. THE CORONI I think you could probably ask the question to the witness and ask him if he recalls the name. CORPORKL WALL: Very good, sir. In your statement, doctor, you mention that this boy was named Ballard. Yes, that's right. Is that correct? That is correct, yes. You treated him for head injuries? Yes. And this chap you know as Wes then took him down the mountain, is that correct? Yes, that is correct. We shouted down to him, and he came up and helped him the rest of the way down the ski slepe. And then, doctor, what did you do? We went further up, quite a considerable way, and_we came across the first body, who, I believe was Glattenburg, and it was just about dark, well, it was dark at this time, it would be about 11:00. Dir. EX. by Cpl. all. 103 6:5 ?nd you came upon Glattenhurg? Zes, 646 was he in the snow, the ohs, doctor? is on the roohs just to the side? of the snow, oh, maybe 5 or 6 feet. 647 Did you examine him? Yes. 15.e was alive and suffering from shOoh and hes .d injurie and. woosure. 648 And did you do fo1 him, doctor? A I gave him some, a small dose of morphia, and we put a cape over him, and then moved on to have a look at some of the other boys. 649 Yes. Do you know the names of these other boys that you refer to, doctor? Doctor, I am showing you a piece of paper. fave you seen this before? A Ees, I drew that a week or so ago. 650 Would th's refresh your memory? A It would. Thank you. CH (6: Will you tell me the names of the other boys that you saw, doctor? A The next boy was R.T. Waylis. 652 a R.T. Baylis? A Yes. He was lying on the snow and a few feet away from him :3 an. littlel iL-er up we "eddon, and he was also in the snow. Both these boys were dead when I arrived. And then we CFN CW .141 1, . mean pull. a, -. can, 1.x ., h. -: 1.14.1. . is?, Luis- ?hullmoved around b?u yielnlc ml? eels?, On, cu icec 01 so 1 vna saw if, Paylis r?ad he eats alive edi'the time, he he extensive injuries 4 I, 8 3 hp. we treated him, and then we went back to Clattenburg and dressed his head, and back to Baylis again. Then we had another look around to see if we could find anybody else. We weren't sure how many we were looking for, and we travelled, oh, a hundred, maybe 200 feet up and we saw Wise, who was lying on a large piece of rock on the snow. That would be about 11:50. Yes. How far higher up was Wise than Seddon and Baylis? Oh, 200 feet probably, maybe more. Tee. And_after that we came back and continued to look after Clattenburg and Baylis. We saw some lights coming up the valley of another party. I don't just know what time they arrived, but it was Walter Perren in the lead, and one of the from the Chateau. Shortly after, two or three other rescue party arrived and they brought a stretcher down to a sort of bluff formation in the rock, oh, a few hundred feet below, and they carried Clattenburg down to that stretcher, and then they brought from there another stretcher in which they were going to put Baylis, but he died at the instant the stretcher arrived. .1 *1 -es. Well, while you were on the mountain, doctor, you Dr. Dir. 657 658 660 661 662 663 664 G.'13; A Sutton by Cpl. Wall. ICE identified Clettenbur; es the injured boy who was brought dovni. Yes, he is the boy who was taken to the hospital. And at the top of the slope was the body of Wise. Ice. 4 Then Well, there were three others, I believe, which we didn't find at that time until after Mr. Perren arrived, they were higher up still, and two were buried in the snow, I believe, we didn't find those. You didn't find those? No. That will be covered by other witnesses, doctor. Yes. And below Wise you found the bodies of Seddon and R.T. Baylis. Yes, that is correct. And the other boy was J.T. Beylis. Yes. Who died at the instant the stretcher was brought up to take him down with Clattenburg, is that correct? That is correct. And then, doctor, after Glettenburg was removed what did you do? Well, I went down with with the stretcher. Dir. 665 A 666 LT.V. EX. by Hall. - 106 And you returned to Moraine Lake Lodge? To Moraine Lodge, yes. Any questions, sir? THE CORONER: Have you gentlemen any questions to ask? THE JURY: The cause of death is not there, is there a statement on the cause of death? THE GORONER: Yes, we will give that to you from another witness. THE JURY: Yes. CORPORAL WALL: May I have the doctor's diagram, sir, entered? . THE GORONER: Yes, I think so. Is this your first exhibit? GORPORAL WALL: Yes sir. THE CORONEH: That will be exhibit No. DIAGRAM ENTERED AS EXHIBIT N0. 1. GORPORAL WALL: The doctor has not signed it, sir. THE CORONER: Oh, I don't think it matters. You are heading this inquest, William Watts, are you? GORPORAL WALL: Yes, sir. THE CORONER: That will be exhibit no. 1. CORPORAL WALL: 'Mr. Prowse has requested permission to ask the witness a question or two. THE CORONER: Please do, Mr. Prowse. . . museum, Exam by Mr. Prowse. Exam by the Coroner. LEE. 667 Doctor, I wonder if you could recall the time that you were first advised that an accident had occured on the mountain. Somewhere between 6:00 and 6:15. 668 g} And, doctor, what time would it be by the time the party moved off up the mountain from the base? 7:00. A 669 7:00. A 5 past 7, I think was the exact time. 670 That is all, sir. THE CORONER EKAMIHEB THE WITNESS: 671 How, I just have one or two shortfq?estiuns. One, doctor, with regard to J. P. Baylis whom you described as being alive at the time but having serious injuries. A Yes. 672 I believe you said you treated him. A Yes, that is correct. 673 And then you went on? A Yes. 674 What was his condition at the time you.saw him with respect to his injuries and the possibilities of complications from eXposure? A Well, he was lying just on the edge of the snow with his I right leg completely doubled right underneath him straight backwards, which I presumed he had a dislocated hip. He 675 676 577 678 679 680 681 682 683 e. . mutton, Exam by the Coroner108 had extensive head injuries, and he had a deep puncture wound_of the left knee joint, right into the joint. Yes. Plus minor abrasions on his arm. Now, that would be about what time you would say, you had discovered this Baylis lad? Between 11:00 and 11:15. That would be 11 to 11:15 in the evening. Approximately, yes. About what time would you say he was finally removed from the slope and taken down? Well, he wasn't taken down, I believe, until the next day, but the actual time that he died is the time the stretcher arrived, it would be approximately 12:30. That is 12:30 in the early morning. Yes, that's a rough?? Approximately an hour or so after you had first seen him. Yes. Yes, and then presuming the accident occurred sometime shortly before you were notified -- Well, I think it occurred maybe two hours before, it took them sometime to get back. Well, your first knowledgeof it was around 6 or 6:15. Yes, that's correct. So that between 6:15, or 6, and 12:30 there would have been a spread of about 6 hours? 685 686 687 688 689 690 hr. e.v. button, Exam by the Coroner, g; h> i930 Yes, air. 50 that if he was exposed he would be exposed for at least six hours. Yes, that is correct. {hen you examined him firs at 11 or 11:15, had any care been taken of him at all? Well, I don't think so because he was completely uncovered, he just had a small shirt on, and a pair of jeans, or slacks, and he was in, lying in such a position that his ankle was, his neck was on his ankle. He was doubled back. Completely doubled back, but there is a possibility that the steepness of the slope there, that he may possibly have rolled_down there during that time. Yes, but at the time you first saw him he had on a light shirt, would you say? A light shirt and a pair of jeans, if I remember And no further covering on his chest, or body, or anything? No. Thank you, Dr. Sutton. Thank you. Oh, perhaps, Dr. Sutton, before you go, could I ask you what the nature of the covering was on R.T. Baylis when you saw him, that is the first Baylis. He, I don't think he had any covering on other than a shirt and a pair of trousers. O: 69 3 6-94 69 6 697 69 8 ?1-?ra 1 - I- .- slam by she doronef. Adeline anew, - . -. hil(lug?J. . 110 and deddon? The same. The same type of thing. And Clattenburg? Clattenburg, he had a cape which was more or less pulled over his head, one of those waterproof capes, and he was curled up under the cape. Thanh you very much. All right, thank you. CORPORLL WALL: Mrs. Shaw. ADELINE Moraine Lake Lodge, Lake Louise, Alberta, sworn, examined by Corporal Wall, testified as follows:? a hrs. Shaw, I believe you are the Lessee of Moraine Lake Lodge? Yes, I am. And your husband is employed there? Yes. As well as yourself. How many seasons have you been at the Lodge, Mrs. Shaw? Well, I came first in '41, and then we were closed until ?46, and I have been there ever since. That would be about 9 seasons you have been there? About that, yes, During the weekend of July 9th, which was the Saturday, and the 16th, Sunday, and Monday the of this year a party of boys were camped at Lake Moraine Campgrounds. Exam by Cpl. Wall. Are you aware of that, Mrs. Shaw? A Well, I am now, actually I don't think I was aware that there was a party there until the accident occurred. 699 Until Monday. A Until Monday. 700 Did you subsequently meet the two leaders of the party? A I did after the accident. 701 Do you know their names? a. Yes one was Dickerson I can't remember his first name 3 I i and the other was Bill Oeser. 702 And the first you saw of them was on Monday, is that true? A Yes, that's right. 703 About what time, Mrs. Shaw? A Well, I saw Mr. Dickerson shortly after the report came down about the accident, and I saw Mr. Oeser when he came down off the mountain. 704 In the evening of July 11th? A Yes. THE CORONEB: About what time of the day would that be, Mrs. Shaw? A Well, I don't like to make a statement on that because to be quite truthful I was so upset at that time I wouldn't like to even guess what time Mr. Oeser came down. 705 has it after the dinner hour or before? A Oh, yes, it was after the dinner hour. 706 And what .3 your usual dinner hour at the Lodge? Exam by Cpl. Wall7:30. 707 CORPORAL WALL: Could you tell the Coroner and the Jury what was the first indication you received there had been an accident? A Well, as a matter of fact, I had gone to my cabin to clean up, as I usually do before dinner, and one of my girls came running over to tell me that there was a report of an accident on Temple. 708 Yes. And I immediately went out, my husband was with me, and just as we went out the door we saw a boy running toward the campground, and we hailed.him and he was, I don't know which boy he was, but apparently he was one of the group, and he was excited and.just said there had been an accident and kept on running. I went right up to the Lodge where I met Peter Smith, he was standing just outside the kitchen door, and Peter Smith was the boy who gave me the report of the accident. 709 Yes. Now, have you any idea what time this was, Mrs. Shaw? Yes, I know it was. I won't say for a few minutes, but either a few minutes before or after 5:30. 710 Did you take any action? A Oh, yes, I immediately phoned Hr Fitt, at the Chateau Lake Louise. 711 Is is the manager of the Chateau Lake Louise? Exam by Cpl. Wall. - 113 - A Yes, he is Manager and actually Supervisor of my operations. 712 Yes. Mrs. Shaw, on, during the weekend did you see any of the Banff National Park Warden Service at Moriane Lake Lodge? A Yes, I did, and I, as I think I told you when I was talking to you before I felt quite sure I saw the Warden's truck on the Monday, but I didn't want to swear to that because it could have been Sunday, or I might have seen it both days. 713 Yes, do you still agree with that, Mrs. Shaw? A Yes, I do. 714 That you may have seen them both days? A Yes. 715 Where was the truck, Mrs. Shaw? A Well, when I saw it it was just in front of our Lodge in the parking ground. 716 Yes. And where is the campground from your Lodge? A Oh, I am not very good at distances, but it's 100 yards, 200 yards. 717 A hundred yards? A 200 yards, I don't know. 718 And the road to your Lodge comes from where? A Goes past the campgrounds. 719 Goes past the campground? A Yes, to our Lodge. 720 And, therefore, the truck would.have to go passed the 721 722 723 726 727 728 UJ U54. . . Exam by Mr. Prowse. 114 campgrounds to be parked in front of your L?dge. A It would have to do that to get into our parking grounds. Yes. Are you aware of the number of persons climbing Temple mountain, or climbing in that area? A Only when they come and tell us. Yes. A I mean we have no way of checking on them. It is actually none of your business. A Well, it isn't, but we do try to tell peOple what to do if they come and ask us. What would you tell them? a I tell them to register with the Warden. Yes. And were any inquiries made of you by this party prior to Mondaythe members of this Wilderness Camp? No. g3 g) Have you any further questions, sir? THE CORONER: Have you gentlemen any questions to ask Mrs. Shaw? Mr. Prowse? HR. ER WSE EXAMINES THE WITNESS: Mrs. Shaw, did you meet young Woodfield after I believe he gave evidence the last day here, and were you here then? a No. 729 751 752 735 734 A .10 ?3 115 I am not just sure if it is in his evidence, but I am given to understand that Mr. Woodfield and Mr. Chapin, two of the boys on the hike, dropped in to the Lodge before they went up the mountain, and they spoke to a lady there, It wasn't to me. They didn't speak to You? No. And what is the usual time, what would you say about how long it would take from the Lodge up to the level where the accident occurred? I am not qualified to state that. You have no idea from your guests? No. I do know this, though, thatomest1peopleggoing up there start out very early in the morning, around 6:00 or so. And as you leave the Lodge, I don't know the area myself, as you leave the Lodge and work up towards the mountain, and then start across, I believe they refer to it as the meadows, is there more or less a pathway that people start out on on the one route, have you any idea? Well, now, I am not a mountaineerconcerned I have been up to Larch Valley and no further on that trail, so I really wouldn't like to give a statement. Fine. 736 757 758 739 740 741 742 TmCoroner. 1-3 HE CORONBR: We will have witnesses for that information. Mrs. Shaw, I have just one or two questions to a with regard to your evidence. CORONER EXAMINES THE WITNESS: You indicate that the general procedure that you follow is that if anyone asks you about climbing either Temple, or any other mountain, you refer them to the Warden. I ask them if they have contacted the Warden. Do you suggest to them that they snould? Yes. And how May I interrupt? Yes. As a matter of fact in many cases I telephone the Warden and tell him, they ask me if I will advise him. Yes. Now do you know if it is the regular procedure for such persons to go to the Warden? Well, I can hardly answer. I think the people who know the mountains and realize what they should do, go to the Warden. Yes. How available is the Warden? Well, just by telephone from my plcae. From your place? Yes. Have you heard people converse with the Warden over your telephone? Man-w ll Exam gy the Coroner117 Yes, I have. And could you tell me, it is a one-sided conversation you hear, the nature of that conversation, do they request permission to ascend.the mountain? Well, I think I probably shouldn't, I am not too sure of it, really but I think they advise the Warden the they are climbing. That is the nature, the general nature of the conversation. Yes. And have you in your, roughly, 9 years experience ever heard of instances where advice against climbing was given? I can't say that, I wouldn't hear that part of the conversation. Have you had people that are staying in your Lodge who have contemplated climbing Mount Temple, and who sub- sequently did not climb it because of adverse advice? I won't say adverse advice, but because of adverse weather conditions. Yes. he a matter of fact, I have told people, we have, we do not have guides at Lake Louise, right now, but I have asked guides when it was safe to climb, and I have advised people age Hn.t climbing early in the season, not particularly 'his year, I can't remember that anybody asked me this year, but I have in the past. 748 749 750 750 Dy ?Ll?le oroner. a 118 And you indicated that to your knowledge no members of this group came to you requesting advice, or asking direction. To my knowledge I didn't speak to any members of the group. Until after? Until after the accident. MR. PROWSE: Sir, I just wonder on that point if I could read the question and answer given by Tony Woodfield on the last examination to see if it does Bring back any memory to this witness. THE CORONER: Yes, What page is that on? ER BROWSE: On page 55, question 596 and 397 are the two questions. THE CORONET: Yes, I think so, although the person to whom the question was directed may not have been Mrs. Shaw. MR. PROWSE: That is right, but I wondered if Hrs. Shaw might have identified the person. THE ooaomss: Yes, surely. MR. TROWSE: Mrs. Shaw, the question 396 about, Tony Woodfield, who is a 16 year old boy. Yes. and he is being asked if they maie arr in uiries before the climb and Tony says this; ?Well, the main source was Ghapin and I before the party was ready to leave for Exam by the Coroner. - 119 the climb had gone to the Lodge at Moraine Lake. We had! spoken to the proprietress, I guess it is, and we had asked her questions concerning the mountain. She told us that the trail left right behind the Lodge to go up to the Pass and she said she had been up to the Pass but she knew nothing of the mountain, she had not heard anything about it, she warned us but she told us nothing concerning avalanches or like, she mentioned we were the first party though to go up that year. She didn't know anything else about the mountain itself." Do you-- A I know who it was. 752 Do you know who that was? A Yes, it was, it was one of my employees. 753 Oh, they did speak, then you do know-- A They came in, I believe, to purchase some chocolate bars, andI had naturally questioned my employees after the accident, and this young lady told me the boys asked her, their question was, had anybody been up Mount Temple this year, and she said, No, not to her knowledge, and to her knowledge only one party had been across Sentinel Pass. That is her statement to me. 754 I see, fine. THE CORONER: Any questions to ask Mrs. Shaw regarding anything that has arisen? Any further questions, Corporal? GORPORAL WALL: Only to identify the person that J-u'y J. Exam by the Coroner120 stated that, sir. I believe Mrs. Shaw can tell us her name. Yes, Miss Winnona Bethune. She is a college teacher working for me during the summer. Oh, I have a further questions, sir, if I might ask it? THE COHCNER: Yes, 50 ahead. GORPORAL WALL: Mrs. Shaw, you stated you saw Mr. Dickerson after the accident. Yes. He called at the Lodge? Yes. Could you advise the coroner and his jury his, or your interpretation of his condition at that time? Well, it's only me personal opinion, I considered Mr. Dickerson was really in a state of shock, he was, seemed completely bewildered. And what would you say concerning his capabilities to lead a rescue party at that time? Well, I don't know anything about his capabilities under ordinary circumstances, but I really d?in't feel that Mr. Dickerson was in condition to go up the mountain. Owing to the state of shock he was in? Yes. Thank you, Mrs. Shaw. THE CORONEE: Thank you very much. Exam by Cpl. WallCORPORAL WALL: Mr. Shaw. THOMAS DUNE SHAW, Moraine Lake Lodge, Lake Louise, Alberta, having been first duly sworn, examined by Corporal Wall, testified as follows: Mr. Shaw, the last witness, Mrs. A. Shaw, is your wife? A Yes. And you reside at Lake Moraine Lodge? A That is right. I refer you to July of this year, Mr. Shaw; early in the morning what were you employed at? A Well, I would start out by putting wood in the cabins, and then when I get that done I usually start sawing more wood. Yes, and you were doing that on the morning of July 11th? A That is right. And what equipment do you use sawing this wood? A I have a small power saw. A small power saw? A Zes, an electric motor on it. Did you see a party of boys that morning? A I did. On what trail were they on? a They were just starting on the Wenkchemna Sentinel Pass Trail. Thomas uunn snaw, Exam by Cpl. Wall. 770 771 772 773 774 775 776 777 779 bribe) an Q, a . 122 The Wenkchemna Sentinel Pass Trail? Yes. Did you notice the clothes that they were wearing? Well, yes I did, Some of them. Was there anything written on these clothes, Mr. Shaw? One or two of them had Wilderness Camp on their sweaters. And did you have any conversation with this group? The only conversation I had was they called to me, they were already on the trail, and they said, someone of them yelled, "Is this the Wenkohemna Pass Trail.", and I said, "Yes.? And what time would this be? That would be approximately, well, this is within maybe 15 minutes either way of about 9:50. In the morning? Yes. And had you any previous conversation with this group, Mr. Shaw? No, sir, I had not. And all that the one member, who you can't identify, stated was that, "Is this the Wenkchemna Pass Yes, that is right. And you answered, That is right. anymore, sir? 780 781 782 783 784 785 786 787 788 789 790 Exam by the Coroner. 123 THE CORONER EXAMINES THE WITNESS2.3 You didn't see anything of them subsequent to that? Not until after the accident. Not until after the accident? No. Could.you tell me what type of morning it was, the weather, the weather conditions? Well, the weather conditions, it was a lovely morning. Sunny? Yes. Warm? Yes. Was it raining? No. Did it rain during the morning? No, sir, it did not. Did it rain during the afternoon? It was late afternoon when it started to rain. When you say late afternoon, about what time? I would say probably around 4:30, somewhere in there. So that from 9:50, around there, when you first saw them until well on into the afternoon it was rather a pleasant day. That's right. Having regard to the did you follow the boys in their climb at all, did you see them at any distance in their climb? 791 792 793 794 795 796 797 .hAl-?J mun-u II Exam by the Coroner. Mrs. C.W. Thompson, Exam by Cpl. Wall. 124 Oh, no, no, I just saw them start off, and that's the last I saw of them as far as their going on their climb, sir. Now, as to the location of the trail itself, would that be in full sunlight, or would it be shaded by anything? Oh, it could be shaded where it started right off from back of the Lodge, you are right in the trees there. Yes, and following up this trail -- have you ever taken the trail up yourself to the Pass? No, sir, I have not. Fine, I won't ask you that. I think that is fine, unless Mr. Prowse has any questions, or the gentlemen of the jury. Thank you, Mr. Shaw. CORPORAL WALL: Mrs. Thompson CATHERINE HALLECE THOMESON, 321 Aquirrel Street, Banff, Alberta, having Beentfirst duly sworn, examined by Corporal Wall, testified as follows:? A Mrs. Thompson, you are employed by the Banff National Parks? Yes. I And how long have you been employed by the Parks, Mrs. Thompson? Two years ago last May. And.in what office do you work? The Chief Warden's Office. Amongst your other duties is it also your duty to register nun?l. u. Exam manyuiuru ul.a.? 1. Wall. - 125 - parties climbing the mountains in this district? Yes. And I am showing you a certificate of registration, Mrs. Thompson. Whose signature is that please? That is mine. This registration, Mrs. Thompson, is numbered, or serial numbered 1343, and dated July 9th, 1955. It is also signed in the space provided for the signature of the guide as O. D. Dickerson. Did you meet this man? Yes. And did you see him write his signature on that certificate of registration? Yes. Can you tell the Coroner and the Jury the time he called at your office, Mrs. Thompson? Oh, I don't remember exactly, these people are coming and going all the timev Yes. If I remember it was about, around 10:00, between presume, July 9th? Yes, that is right. Saturday morning. Yes. Did he make any request of you, Mrs. Thompson? Request? He inquired about Mount Bundle. Xes. He wished to climb Mount Bundle with his party, is 807 808 809 810 811 512 . U.W. Thompson, Exam by Cpl. Wall. 50 that right? He wished to go up Mount Bundle with this party of boys,? yes. And did he ask you the condition of Mount Bundle at this time? No, as a matter of fact he didn't, he was rather impatient to get off, he had been held up with one thing and another, he didn't seem too interested in the condition. He stated to you that he had been held up with one thing and another. That is his words, yes. Yes, And this certificate of registration is a check on the party climbing in general, on any parties climbing the mountains, and it is usually made out in their favour with the number of the parties involved on the face of the form, is that correct? Yes. Also the equipment they are carrying, and their route, and destination. That is right. And what is subsequently done with the original permit, Mrs. Thompson? They are asked to bring mt back into us when they come in, or if my office is closed to turn it into the information Bureau. Yes. They are given the original copy. ?dud-I-J. Exam 813 814 815 816 817 818 819 820 821 4.4.;V4ut4wua4. "Cpl. wail. 127 Yes. Then obviously this copy has been returned to your office. Yes. was any other mountain mentioned while Dickerson was speaking to you? No, he mentioned nothing but Mount Bundle. Was he referred to any other person by you at this time? Yes, when I found the size of his party I thought he should speak to someone that knew more about the mountain. Yes, and to whom did you refer him? I referred him to Miss Harmon. Did you make any other suggestions, Mrs. ?hompson? No, there was nothing else I could tell him, I have never climbed Mount Bundle. Is Miss Harmon Qualified to advise on the mountain, to your knowledge? Ees, she was born and brought up here and she knows the Whole Park. Yes. Were there any of the National Park Wardens present when he called at your office? No, there wasn't. In any event he made request for permission to climb Mount Bundle. Mount Bundle, only, yes. And the permit was fillied out and signed in the usual manner 822 823 824 825 826 827 828 Ml" . U.W. Thompson, Exam by Cpl. Wall. Exam by Mr. ProwdeYes. And was subsequently returned to your office. Yes? No further questions, sir. THE CORONER: Have you gentlemen any questions? THE JURY: That was the same day he climbed the mountain was it? Yes, he got it in the morning and then left. MR PROWSE EXAMINES THE WITNESS: g: QJ The permit in question, do you know the purpose of these permits? 30 we have an idea who is climbing the mountains, and when they should be back so we can take some action of they don't come back. I see. And the permit in question, have you any idea when it did come back to your office? Well, it was on my desk??onday morning, so I imagine it was turned in on Saturday afternoon. We don't work on Saturday afternoon. I see, and you would expect it, you say that your, that if your offices are not Open when the parties come back they turn it into the Information room, is that right? That is what we ask them to do, yes. And the girl at the Information Booth would bring the slip back to your office the next time it is open. 829 830 831 852 833 834 U.W. Thompson, Exam by Mr. Prowse. A A 129 That is right. And it is my understanding that the oarty came back after the trip this night and they found the office closed. They would, yea. They would be closed at night. Yes. And returned the next day, which was Sunday, am I right? GORPOEAL WALL: That is correct from the previous evidence, yes. MR. PROWSE: And the office would be closed Sunday morning? Well, there is a chap in the office, they may not have realized that though. And then I take it, then, that it is reasonably clear that the people who went up Bundle, there was no check made 2 when the slip did not come back into the office. What do you mean? Well, this certificate of registration, I am trying to find the purpose, and you say that it is to check on a party who doesn't come back. Ies. Now, this party, so far as you are concerned, didn't come back until Monday morning when you found this slip on your desk. As far as I am concerned, but there are other people in the Office. Exam by Mr. Prowse. 836 838 839 840 841 c553 130 Do you know anybody else who checked before you to find, if they had come back? Well, whoever picked desk. Would know at the time they picked it up. Yea. But nobody would worry until they did pick it up. Well, once it was picked up there was nothing to worry about. And if it wasn't picked up? Well, they knew at the Information Bureau that the party had gone out. I see, but I mean there was no, when it didn't come in the Saturday night from Bundle, nobody was concerned. Well, I can't say about that because I don't know when it came in. I only know when it was on my desk. I see. I presume somebody will know when it came in. Will you be calling someone? GORPOKAL Pardon? MR. PROWSE: I presume somebody will know when it came into the building? CORPOREL We haven't made inquiries so fat as that is concerned, Mr. Prowse. . PROWSE: Well, you see the point I am concerned with. ooaroaiL wiLL: Yes, I see it exactly. 842 843 Mr. C.W. Thompson, Exam by the Coroner. a - 131 MR. PROWSE: The point is briefly this, that here is a form that is supposed to have some meaning CORPORAL WALL: Yen will have to address the Coroner and the Jury. MR PROWSE: Mr. Coroner, I feel that this question should be dealt with by one of the witnesses here. They have, they talk about registration and they suggest that that might have been something that the party overlooked when they went up Temple. THE CORONER: Yes. MR PROWSE: They did register when they went up Bundle, and when they came back there was no place to put this slip, and no action was taken by anybody who wasn't back. From that I take it the slip has ceased to mean anything inparticular, and now become merely a formality followed if people happen to drop in, or not followed and not checked up on. THE CORONER: Yes. THE CORONER EKAMINES THE EITNEST: Mrs. Thompson, these certificates of registration presumably come out of a book. Is a duplicate kept? Yes. That is the one that I have here, and which incidentally I have entered as exhibit No 2. DOCUHEET AS EXHIBIT NO 2. Exam by the Coroner 132 844 That folds over on something, and then you have We have an identical copy of that. 845 Now, who makes out this certificate of registration, whose handwriting is this? A In that case I did. 846 That is, you wrote ?Banff National Park" "July 9th, 1955? "24 members? Dickerson?? A That is right. I 847 ?Ropes, pitons" route and destination "Mount Bundle". Now, Who wrote returned to July 9th/55 at noon, is that also your handwriting? A Well, no. That is when they said that they were going to return and I told7Mr. Dickerson that he couldn't possibly, that it was going to be along time after?noon before he came back. 848 But you wrote that ?returned July 9th, 1955", if that is your handwriting. A Well, we write that down, July 9th, or whatever date it happens to be when they expect to come back. 849 When they expect to come back? A Yes. 850 But that-? A And then when that comes in we mark our duplicate returned. 851 But that indicates-- A Yes, I know. Mrs. G.W. Thompson, Exam by the Coroner133 the time of return? Yes. It is rather erroneous, iSn't it? Actually that means when they empect to return. That is what it means, but it doesn?t say that. No. This specifically says, "returned to", presumably it should mean to where, someplace. Yes. Actually the way we use it is that they return at the time that we mark down there, that that is when they are eXpected to return. Now, this certificate of registration simply indicates to you that a party of 24 members were planning to go up Mount Bundle. That is right. Does it give them permission to go? Yes. . This is also their permission? Yes. Now, if you do not grant this certificate of registration what happens? They haven't permission to go. They haven't permission to go, and that is, is that an understood thing, or are there any regulations covering it? I don't know the exact number of the regulations, but there 861 862 864 Mrs. G.W. Thompson, Exam by the Coroner. (C) 11;? -134- is a regulation covering that they have to be signed out.? I see now, on the back of this certificate of registration, ?The head guide shall be responsible for the good behaviour of his assistants and camp helper and for the observance of these regulations by them and by the members of the party with which he is employed; but such responsibility on the part of the head guide shall not free any member of the party from any personal responsibility or liability for any branch of these regulations." And where are these regulations? Well, we have copies in the office. And did Mr. Dickerson have a copy of these, or was he given a copy? I don't know whether he had a copy or not. I presumed he looked all that stuff up before he brought the party to' the park. Do you issue a permit like this without giving them a list of the regulations? Xes. How would they know what the regulations were? I mean, supposing I came into your office and I say, want a certificate of registration, or a permit to climb Sulpher Mountain.?, or something like that, which I wouldn?t, and I obtain a certificate of this type, and walk out of the office; is that all I would have? Kes. Inna. - It . Exam by the Coroner. 135 865 Wouldn't someone say to me, "Do you know the regulations??. or, "Here is a copy of the regulations."2 A It is assumed when you go mountain climbing that you do know the regulations. 866 Do you know what the regulations are? A Well, the regulations just amount to the fact that you had to know what mountain climbing is all about and take proper precautions. 867 Have you, yourself, read the regulatidns? A Yes. 868 Are they in some booklet form? A Oh, yes, they are part of the National Park Regulations. 869 Is it a small booklet, a big booklet? A Oh, it isn?t a big thing, no. 870 Does it take long to read it? A Yes, if you are geing to study it to know what it is all about. 871 So that there is some set, there are some set conditions about going about in the Park climbing mountains, and so on? A Yes. 872 And do those include other activities in the park, the same regulations? Well, it includes, I think it is the same regulations that cover shooting, and thinss like that. 873 874 875 876 877 878 879 mnsC?.?wmqu Exam by the Coroner. JD 136 - How large a pamphlet is this? Oh, the Game Regulations, I think, are about a quarter of an inch thick. About a quarter of an inch thick, and how many pages would there be in that? I have no idea. Are they given out, or are they purchased? I suppose you could send to Ottowa and get cOpies, it is just the regular copies or regulations. How many copies, for example, have you in your office now? We have our office copies, copies for all the Wardens and Acting Wardens. Now, do you hand out the regulations to anyone who comes in and says, ?Here is a GOpy for you."? No. we can show them our office copy. . What I am trying to get at is how do these people know what the regulations are? How would I know what they are if I walked into the office and asked for a permit to climb a mountain. Well, if you didn't already know them we could show them to you in the book, we could show you all the Park Regulation But that is the only copy available, is the one you have in your office, and the ones the Wardens have. As far as the Warden's office is concerned, I don't know about the other offices. So that actually these regulations are not easily available Mrs. G.W. Thompson, Exam by the Coroner. 137 unless you know they exist. A Well, there is regulations, of course, connected with everything, isn't there? 881 I mean this certificate simply says, "The head guide shall be reSponsible for the-?? for certain things, and for the observance of these regulations, but there are no regulations. A Not printed on that. 882 It says these regulations, and there is nothing on this permit showing me any regulations. It specifically says these regulationsthe back of the certificate is something about doing your best to save the forest. THE JURY: Dr. Cantor, wouldn't it be the responsibility of the leader of the group to find out what the regulations are? THE CORONER: Well, I am not terribly concerned about the responsibility as I am in the availability of these things. THE JURY: Well, if he asked he could receive THE CORONER: Oh, yes, but it seems to me a relatively easy matter to go and get a certificate. THE JURX: Well, it should be. 585 THE There is one other question that concerns me a little, Mrs. Thompson, and that is with respect to your reference to Miss Harmon with regard to pu?n.? Exam by the Coroner. 885 886 887 888 5,59 1. s92 :0 33? 3?33 58 pp :59 21?) 138 climbing Mount Bundle. Is she a qualified guide? Oh, no, she isn't a qualified quide, but she has done a lot of climbing and hiking all over the park. Are there any qualified guides in the park? Not that I know of. In the Banff Park, here? Not that I know of. Are there any persons other than Miss Harmon, who I understand is otherwise engaged, who could give information of this type? Well, the various Wardens could for their districts. Yes, and wouldn't it be possible, or appropriate to refer someone to a Warden rather than to a private individual in the Park? Well, Miss Harmon is an employee of the Parks. Oh, she is employed by the Parks? Oh, yes, she is in the same building. And What is her capacity, what does she do? I don't know just what her official title is. She is in charge of information, things like that. Is she in charge of information with regard to climbing? Hiking, things like that. I see, so that she is presumably properly qualified for that type of information. Oh, yes. And as you have indicated before you have no idea exactly 893 894 895 896 897 898 899 900 Mrs. 0.8. Thompson, Exam by the Coroner. @48pr .9 g) go - 159 when this slip came back, except that it must have been between noon on Saturday or early Monday morning. Yes. Now, after you have made out this certificate, and you close your office at 12 noon, what do you do with you duplicate? Well, they are, that is is in book form. Yes, and what do you do with the book? It is in the office, there. In your office, in the Warden's office? Yes. And how does it become available to anyone else during the Weekend? Well, it is right there on the shelf Just inside the office. And is the Warden's office and the Information office at the same place? No, the Information office is downtown. Is downtown. We are up in the Administration Building. I see. Now, how does this duplicate of your become avamlable to the information people in the Administration Building when you are closed? Well. our office isn't closed, it is open 7 days a week. Yes, but how would anyone in information know they they have to go down to the Warden's office to check and see 901 902 903 904 905 906 Mrs. Exam a) g) In ED 69 W. Thompson, by the Coroner. - 140 - if these slips are returned on the weekend. They don't, our own people would do that. Your own people would do that? Yes. And you had no knowledge of this, though, until the following Monday morning. I, myself, hadn't, no. Well, does anyone go through that book during the weekend to see that the slips are back? Well, if peOple don't, if those slips aren?t turned back in we make inquiries around to see what has happened, because a lot of them are never returned. Well, what I am trying to find out is did anyone miss this certificate of registration, which according to the evidence that I have before me, and which was received at the earlier hearing, and correct me if I am wrong, was not turned in until Sunday. GORPOEAL WALL: That is correct sir. THE CORONER: On Sunday noon. Did anyone miss them, or miss this slip of paper until 24 hours later? Well, no, but it is quite customary if people come in on a Sunday that they don't bother turning it in until Monday, in fact they quite often don't turn them in at all. Well, doesn't someone get worried about them? Yes, we phone around and discover that they have cq= back and just never returned the slip. Exam by the Coroner. Exam by the Juryyou know whether anybody phoned around to investigate whether this party came back, this large party, and this slip was not turned in, I am told, until Sunday afternoon, and it was issued on, during the morning of Saturday; do you know if anybody phoned or asked where this party was? No, I don't. Who would phone in the event that they get worried during the weekend? Well, I suppose the procedure would be that the chap that is in the office on Sunday would contact the Chief Warden. I don't really know. Do you know whether in this case he did contact the Chief Warden? No, I don't. I never thought anything about it when the slip was there, I just presumed it had been turned in, I didn't know until now it hadn't been turned in until Sunday. I see. Any further questions? CORPOJLL WALL: None at all. THE CORONER: Have you gentlemen any questions? THE JURY: Mrs. Thompson, on your slip there you have the presumed time that they will come back, haven't you? That is right. '1 And if they are not each at that presumed time I am an old employee up where you are n- the Warden's imaediatel? ?uke?. U-b?vv Nth-h Cpl. Barron, Exam by Cpl. Wall. - 142 become worried and phone around, as you say. A Yes. 913 I think every precaution is taken to see that they a can 1" 9 either back, they go looking for them. Am I right? A That is right. 914 THE COROEER: for these people, that is as far as you know. a As far as I know that was turned back. THE JURY: She wouldn't know. A I know over the weekend. TEE CORODE.: Thompson, thank you. 0 far as you know nobody looked I think that is fine, Mrs. GJEPOREL FRAME KARWE Royal Canadian Mounted Police, Calgary, Alberta, having been first duly sworn, examined by Corporal Wall, follows: 915 Corporal Garron, you are THE I Gorporal, are you? -4. That is 1? iliiht . 915 51.3}; (I 03.? (31:31. L- LL fou are a member of the Canadian Hounted Police stationed at'? ?nd attachec to fhe identi?' . l. _?i?al L. . m, . -- ?rl this v?llff. -'011 nLhocaae Yes, there were a larce number of tents there including several trailers. 956 957 959 960 961 962 963 964 965 Mr. G.P. Woodwarth, Exam by Cpl. Wall. .9 a? ab ?2 pp Ci") .. - 149 Were you alone at this time? I was when I made the patrol. Bid you see a party from the Wilderness Camp on this day? I could have, but I didn't step to ask any questions. I seen a large number of tents, pup tents and other tents, but I never stopped to inquire as to who they were. Where did you stop there, Mr. Woodwarth? I made a patrol and stopped at the parking lot, that is there is a parking lot between the campground and the Moraine Lake Lodge, and there is another campground and another parking lot right in front of the Lodge proper. I stopped at both these places. How were you dressed, Mr. Woodwarth? In full uniform, sir. As you are now? Yes. And what vehicle were you driving? I was driving a Fargo truck, light delivery. Who owns this vehicle? It belongs to the Government, Banff National Park. Does it bear any insignia? Yes, it has on the door. What has it on the door? Warden Service. Pardon? Warden Service Patrol Gar. .nau. 966 967 968 969 970 971 972 973 974 119."It. d-n Cpl. Wall: 15o Yes, and it is a half-ton truck, is that it? Yes. And how long were you in this parking ground, there? Oh, I would say I was there 15 minutes,_ha1f an hour, that is in the area right around the aprking lot and the camp proper. Did anyone contact you? No, no one. You had conversation with no one? Oh, I did talk to several pedple there on fishing and so forth, and stuff like that, but not to any extent on climbing or hiking. And you were naturally available? Oh, absolutely. That is the purposeeof your patrol? That is right. THE CORONER: I am sorry, I probably missed the time, you say you were there from 15 to 50 minutes? Yes. I About what time of the day would that be, Mr, Woodwarth? Oh, I figure it would be along around 4:00 in the after- noon, between 4 and 5, it was in that vicinity. You went there earlier in the day? No, sir. CORPORAL WALL: And then you turned around and resumed your patrol, is that correct? That is correct. 975 976 977 978 979 982 Mr. G.P. Woodwarth Exam by Cpl. WallAnd then on the following day, July of this year, Mr. Weedwarth, where did you go? The first patrol I made was to Moraine Lake direct from home. What time did you leave home? I would say close to 8:00. In the morning? In the morning. And were you alone this time? No, I had my two assistants. Could you give me their names please? Yes, one was Wes Gilstorf and the other one is Jack Schauerte. What is their official status? They are my assistants, they are Acting Wardens. They are acting Wardens. and they are stationed with you at Lake Louise. That is correct. How were they dressed, Jr. Woodwarth? They were dressed, as near as I can say, Gilstorf was in brown, or in blue overalls, and he had a shirt similar to what I am wearing. Have they any official insignia? Yes, they each wear Authority badges in their hats. In their hat? In their hat. 985 987 988 989 \0 0 . U.J. . IIUUKJ-IIWJ- Una, Exam by Cpl. Wall. - 152 - And your clothing at this time, was it the same as the previous day? That is correct. You left Lake Louise, then, at about 8 A.H. for what purpose? For the purpose of taking these two men to Moraine Lake to make a patrol on the Wenkchemna Trail. THE CORONER: That is the one going up to Sentinel Pass, is it? The one trail that leaves Moraine Lake going up to Sentinel Pass is the same trail that goes into Larch Valley and over Sentinel Pass, it forks, there is one main trail and then there is two forks off it, there is one to Wenkchemna and one to Sentinel Pass. That is the trail you were going to patrol? That is right. CORPORAL NAIL: And you were driving the same vehicle that you were driving the previous day. That is right. What time did you arrive at Moriane Lake, Mr. Woodwarth? I imagine it would be around, I didn't check it for accuracy, but I imagine it was between 20 after 8 and not later thant half past 8 in the morning. And where di you stop when you got to Moraine Lake? I stopped almost in front of Mrs. Shaw's tearoom, that is the 8.9.3. Tearoom. 991 992 993 994 996 997 Cf 999 Mr. s39. Woodxiig?xf h, Exam by Cpl. s51 . a; i 15- And naturally having passed the Pulic campground. That is right. Did you see any activity there? Yes, I seen quite a number of peeple on the campground. There was a lot of tents pitched, there was a number of small pup tents and I seen quite a number of boys on the campgrounds. Did you see any vehicles parked there? Yes, there was a number in the campground and also in the parking lot. And you did not step at the campground on this day? No, I passed right by, we were making a little time nd 93 the boys wanted to get going. Yes, and how long were you there at this time? I was there, I would say, probably 15 minutes, that is parked . Parked there, yes. Did you have any conversation with anyone on this patrol? No, not that morning, no. Only with my two boys, that is the two men working with me. Yes, and I believe you stated your porpose was for the two Acting Wardens to go up on the Wenkchemna Trail. That is correct. and you the returned to Lake Louise? I came back home. Yes, and did you return to Moraine Lake on this d-vi 3 1000 1001 1002 1003 1004 1005 1006 a: a a: ?43, A 154 Yes, I did in the afternoon. About what time? Between 4:30 and quarter to 5, I would say. And the purpose of this patrol? Was to pick up my two assistants. Which you did? I did. And returned? We returned directly home, we stopped nowhere. And then upon your return home, Mr. Woodwarth, what did you do? Well, it was getting late, it was getting on toward 5:30, and the Post Office cldses at Lake Louise at and I asked one of my assistants, Schauerte, what time it was, and he said, he said, ?If you turn around you can probably get your mail,? and I returned to the Post Office and got my mail. I returned home, and when I returned home my wife was at the door and she said that Mr. Fitt, that's the Manager of the Chateau Lake LouiSe, wanted me on the phone. Yes. When I answered the phone Mr. Fitt told me there had been a serious accident on Moraine Lake, as he had a phone call from Mrs, Shaw, but the particulars weren't 5 very much. Mr. lid itt OJ Lake. if I would return to Moraine Lake and investigate. Did you make any other phone calls at this time? Exam by Op 1007 1008 1009 1010 1011 1012 eff;- e. tL" iI?vaii, 155 Yes, I did, I phoned the Chief Warden and notified his there had been an accident but I had no particulars, And the Chief Warden is? Mr. Herb Ashley. And he is resident -- Besides in Eanff. And you returned to Moraine Lake? Yes, I went to the cabin though to get one of my men, and then turned and went to the tent where my other assistant sleeps. He wasn't there, the other assistant, that is Gilstorf, he boards at the Government Road Camp, and Schauerte went to the Road Camp to get Gilstorf, and he notified Gilstorf, he picked up Gilstorf's hat and his jacket and he went to the Road Camp and notified Gilstorf, and at the same time borrowed a stretcher at the camp and came back. I met him and we all three left immediately for Moraine Lake. I picked up some flashlights and some rope before I left. And what time did you arrive at Moraine Lake? I would say it would be shortly after six, I wouldn't put in right down to the exact time, but I would say 20 after 6, or somewhere in that vicinity. Previous to this had you any knowledge that a nartv had been climbing in that ar,a? Hone whatsoever[ and you arrived at Moraine Lake somewhere about 6:20? .. Exam by Cpl. Wall. 1015 1014 1015 1016 101( ~156- In that vicinity. Upon your arrival there who did you see? I contacted Mrs. Shaw in reference to the accident. is . If.) Mrs. Shaw said there had been an accident to her knowledge on the mountain, and a boy by the name of Smith had come in with word of the accident. Did you see this man, Smith? The boy? Yes. Yes., Mrs. Shaw and I located him, he was goin C. the Tearoom apparantly heading down to his camp at the campgrounds when we got him. We brought him back, and I talked to him in there, and he was so erratic and all worked up, I questioned him as to the nature of the accident, and he told me there had been an accident on Mount Temple. Did he advise you of the condition of the boys still on Mount Temple? Yes, he said there was two boys they couldn't locate, he sa there was one boy in particular who was dead, he knew for certain was dead, and there was two, himself and another boy, who got out of the slide. a 1 . arm?. - - . he say now many were involved in 3001 ?31 art? He nail there was 11 all told. He was so excited it was pretty hard to set things straight with him. UV Exam by Cpl. Wall. 1019 A 1022 a 1-1 1023 - 157 - And at this time did you contact your Banff office? Yes, as soon as I got some word from Smith I phoned Mr. Strong, the Superintendent, and the phone line wasn't too good, and he put Mr. Ashley, the Chief Warden on the phone, and I explained to Mr. Ashley, all the details I had was there were two boys missing and one was dead. And ll boys involved? Involved, that is right. And what did you do, then, Mr. Woodwarth? I organized a rescue party to go out with what available people there were. And who went on this rescue party? . There was my two assistants, Giletorf and ochauerte, and there were two guests from Moraine Lodge, one I believe Dr. Gunn, or Dunne, some such name, I just don't recall the name. would it be Crumb? 1 Crumb, that is right, and a Mr. Scoffiled, and Dr. Sutton, and this boy Smith, and a boy in charge of the camp. Dickerson? Dickerson, that is right. O.D. Dickerson. and you remained 51?, A: remained my the LOdae undei the orders of the sale; HardenLBS. ?ow, What time did they Leave moraine Lane LOT Lde - -. .. 1 J. to my watcn was wooawartn, Exam by Cpl. Wall. 1027 1025 1029 1030 1031 1032 1033 1034 1035 1036 1037 1038 P?he 158 7:10 in the evening? That is right. What equipment did they take with them, Mr. Woodwarth? They took a stretcher, and they took first aid equipment. I couldn't tell you what Dr. Sutton took. Medical supplies. That is right. Did you see the other leader of the party after this? Yes, later Oeser, I met him later. About what time would that be, have you any idea? I am not positive on the time, I would say between 7 and 8. Between 7 and 8:00 in the evening? Yes, that is right. And where did Oeser come from? He came from the scene of the accident, as near as I know. And what was Oeser's condition at this time, Mr. Woodwarth? He was very excited, in fact he asked if we couldn't get helicopters to come in to the rescue. And could you advise the Coroner and his Jury what time the main rescue party arrived? I would say that is to leave Moraine? They arrived I believe -- it Horaine Lake? At Moraine Lake. No, I couldn't say right off, between 9 and 10:00 I would say. And who were present on the second search party, or 1059 1040 1041 1042 1043 1044 1045 1046 1047 Mr. Kink. seam by Cpl. Wall. ?2 .13159 rescue party? Assistant Chief Warden Pittaway, Walter Perrin. We had 8 other men come out to go onthe rescue, they were at Moraine Lake, they came earlier. Yes, and then the Assistant Chief warden Er. Pittaway and Walter Perrin, he is an Acting Warden, is he? Yes, that is right. He is-a recignized guide. Yes. They arrived to go with this . That is right. second party, and the 8 men who were already there comprised the party. That is right. You, yourself, remaining at Moraine Lake. I remained at Moraine Lake all night. Now, were you at Moraine Lake when the injured boys returned? Yes, I was. Do you know the name of the first boy that returned? No, I couldn't tell you, Corporal. I probably would know if I heard it, but I don't know. Now, in order for identification do you know his name new? I lo. A I 3.40, I Gull. belle; (D You remember this boy :eturning to the Lodge. Xes, I assist:d him when he came in. Hes. Mr. G.P. Woodwarth, Exam by Gpl. Wall. - 160 A Mr. Shaw and I helped remove his we clothing. 1048 And was Mr. Oeser there at this time? A Yes, he was. 1049 And you assisted Mr. Shaw in removing the clothing from this first injured byy? A That is correct, yes. There was a doctor at Moraine Lake and he volunteered his services, him and one of the boys that came in the Army ambulance dressed the boys head and his legs. 1050 His name was Ballard, is that, do you know that? A It sounds like it. I wouldn't know all of the names. 1051 You didn't know the names, any bf them? be No. 1052 That is just to keep the record clear. And than you, did you go down to the boys camp afterwards? A Yes, I was down at the boys camp several times, in fact ehad a little discussion there because some of the boys that were up at the base of the camp, that is the base camp where they were-going to climb from, came in, and they came into the Lodge, and Mr. aw asked if there wasn't someway to get the boys out of his Lodge and down to the camp on account of his guestswent down with the boys to the camp, and in place of staying, or sleeping in their tents we moved them into one of the big shelters, and the boys bedded dawn in the shelter. 1054 1055 1056 1058 1059 1060 1061 MP. e.r. wooawartn, Exam by Cpl. Wall. :33; - 161 That is the shelter with log sides and a complete roof orer it. Yes, that is right, it is boarded in on three sides. Were you aware of the complete results of the adcident at this time? No, not completely. There was another second boy came in, Woodfield, or a name similar to Woodfield. Woodfield, yes. He came in and he gave us much the same stories as what Smith did. Oeser came in after Woodfield. What time did you return to your office at Lake Louise, Mr. Woodwarth? Well, I returned home, I imagine it would.be between 7 and 8 in the morning. That is? That is the following morning, that would be the morning of July 12th. The morning of July 12th. That is right. You weren't at the scene of the accident at all? No, I wasn't. Mr. Woodwarth, are you issued with the certificates of registration for checking out parties? Yes, I am. For climbing mountains? Xes, I am. Exam by Cpl. wailf 1063 1064 1065 1066 1067 1068 1069 1070 A 1071 - 162 Have you mayy requests for these certificates? Yes, quite a large number. And in your station of Late Louise what is your methdd of filing the certificates? We usually ask all the people to return the certificates, and as a general rule we get them and keep them. The original is returned to you, then? Yes, that is right. Sometimes they are returned and sometimes they are not. If they are not returned what action do you take? Well, the ones I refer to not being returned probably they phone them in. Now, an instance like at Moraine Lake, we recognize it by them phoning us. Sometimes people go there with a car, and they are passing on through and they don't want to come back and return the slip, and they continue on. Is there a due time and date on this certificate? Not on the ones we have. I am showing you exhibit No. a. Do you recognize this type of certificate? Yes. Is this in current use? No, not to my knowledge, we don't use that style. The one that you are issued with is of more recent origin. Yes, it is, inis is an outdated form. Mr. Woodwarth, Exam by Cpl. Wall. Exam by Mr. Prowse. 163 A Yes, would say it was. THE CORONER: This new certificate that you are referring to, has that developed since July 9th? I couldn't say. 1072 Did you use this type of certificate before? Yes, we have, other years. 3: g) 1073 Did you use this type of certificate this year? A No, we used the new form. 1074 WALL: In generally referring to these certificates, do you have any specified period of grace that you give a party to return? A As a general rule 8 to 10 hours. 1075 8 to 10 hours, that is past the due date, or the due time, is that correct? A That is correct. 1076 And does it happen frequently that you are called upon to make further inquiries after issuing the first permit? A Yes, it is. 1077 Generally with the result that the party has returned safely, is that right? a Yes, most of them. 1078 .Any further questions, sir? Have you gentlemen no questions to ash Mr. woodwarth? Hr. Prowse? PROWSE EKAHINLs TEE WITEEBS: 1079 a Sir, I am not just clear on your duties, you mentioned 1080 1081 URI: . Exam by MT. Prowse. 1082 1083 1084 1085 1086 164 patrols; the purpose of the patrols, are for what purpose do you make patrols? We make patrols for the purpose of observation of firesm and also for to maintain our trails, and we make them for game observation also, To maintain your trails, and your trails are maintained for what purpose? For the general public in their travel. I see. And tha path followed by the, this group of boys going up the mountain, is there a trail at the bottom of the mountain which you follow until you get part way up? There is a trail leading from Moraine Lake up and through Larch Valley, over Sentinel Pass, and into Paradise Valley. And that is a maintained path that you mentioned. That is right. And are there on that path anywhere posted warnings of the risks of mountain climbing, or anything like that? No, sir, there is not. Is that a similar path to tne I would find if I walked over to Sulpher Mountain today, I mean on the starting is a maintained path on Sulpher Mountain? That is right. And you have a similar path on Bundle Mountain? That is right. And in anyone of these three mountains to a person visiting the path he would consider that an invitation to follow Mr. G.P. Woodwarth, Exam by Mr. Prowse. 1090 1091 1093 A f" A A Ill) -165- along up this way. Yes, we post notices on these trails as to what the trails are. The names of the trail? That is correct. Where they go? Yes. Now, your primary purpose in making a trip, you don't necessarily expect somebody when you stop at the camp for 15 minutes one day, and then just stop in to drop some chaps off the next day, there is nothing regular about that that people in the camping grounds would know you would be there at any particular time. Oh, no. And is there a person in charge of the campgrounds? No, not at Moraine Lake. Not at Moraine Lake? No. And are there any other campgrounds where there would be a person in charge? Yes, there was at Lake Louise, there is a man naintained daily, and all night, too, a commissioner at night. And in a park like Lake Louise where there is a person in charge would you drop by at that person?s office every day and chat with him? Oh most aeneroll . 3 i .- ~rguu?uqr-r? Exam by Mr. Browse. 1094 1095 1096 A 1097 1098 A 166 - Would there be, I have this in mind, would a person in charge of a camp like that take it upon themselves to advise you of any groups that he had heard that might be mountain climbing? Yes, we ask them to, we have a man at Lake Louis Chateau where they park their cars, and we ask him that any parties going out if he contacts them to contact us, or advise them. I see. Now, in granting a permit you haven't got one of the forms permit you use? No, I am sorry, I haven't. CORPOILL WELL: There will be one available. MR. PROWSE: Can it be made available at this time? CORPORAL aaLL: This afternoon, it could. HR PROWSE: It is not here this morning? CORPORAL WALL: No. MR. PROWSE: Who grants these permits in the Lake Louise area? I do, or my wife. I see, and your wife has lived in the mountains the same period of time as you have? No, not quite as long as I have. Not quite as long as you have? She has been for the last 29 or 50 years though, she is quite familiar with the mountains. Mr. G.P. Woodwarth, Exam by Mr. Prowse. 1100 1101 1102 1103 1104 a 1.1. 167 - I see, and do you, grant them in the Lake Louise Yes, myself and my wife. And if somebody asked you for wife fro some information, whoever, are there only two people that area, yourself or your wife? some information, or your I take it that she would refer them to who, if you weren't there? We have an Information Bureau I see, but I mean inforration if somebody came to your wife first let's take this; I come a permit, what information do at Lake Louise also. about mountain climbing; and asked for a permitask you for you seek at this time? It depends on the nature of your purpose, whether you are going to climb, fishing I am going climbing. In the event of your climbing we ask you if you are familiar with the mountains, and the area you are climbing the mountains in, and if you are properly equipped, that is gear. And if I tell you that I am not familiar with the area I propose climbing in, what do you do then? We as much as possible ta pe ople out of making any climbs unless they are properly euuipped. I see, but supposing I have the proper equipment and just not familiar, what uld I '14 (3?71 4 8 nothing We can do, climbing the mountains. 1 am you do then? we can't stop you from We would advise you against it. dun?II. no ultra?lo u-w Ina?u, Exam by Mr, Prowse. 1105 1106 1107 1111 I..J ID 4 168 - You would advise me against it. If I propsed.going would? you, if you gathered from talking to me I had some ability, would you proffer any advice at all? Absolutely we would if we knew the area you were going in. I see. Now, would you make a suggestion of a guide? Yes, I would. And would that be one of your first suggestions if it was and area with which I was not familiar? Yes, it would, and in the years past we have had guides, recognized guides at Lake Louise, and we still refer to them at Lake Louise. I see. Do you know the Banff area at all? Yes, fairly well. And do they have, weel, how does a person become a guide? Well, they have to pass certain questions, and so forth. and their ability is taken into consideration. And do they have qualified, do they have a list of qualified guides? Yes, to my knowledge they have. And does it surprise you that this same group of people at Banff were not referred to a guide, but merely to another girl in another office when they sought information about mountain climbing? Well, that is a matter of personal opinion as far as i am concerned. Well, as an ex'erienced mountain climber does that not surprise you? 1.1.5. vii, Exam by Mr. Prowse A 1115 at) A 1114 1115 1116 A 1117 1118 169 Oh, to a certain extent it does. I take it that your wide, if you were not available, would refer somebody to a guide seeking that information? That's right. Are there any notices in the public camp grounds at Lake Louise that give campers notice of where they can obtain information, or contact tha Warden's Service to obtain information regarding mountain climbing? Well, I wouldn't say for sure whether there are or not, not to my knowledge. I see, and as a person driving into the park how would I know that you were the person that I should seek out for that information? would probably find out from an Information Bureau. That is I would have to go to the Information Bureau and ask them? Yes, that is more than likely the idea of having the Information Bureau. I see. Who would you assume in the Information Bureau would refer me to when I went to them and asked them? They would probably refer you to one of the Park Wardens, or to probably a recognized guide they might know of. I see. I think that is all. THE CORONWR: Any further questions? 1119 1120 1121 1122 1123 1124 1125 1126 m4. . Hod. - llUUhL'uiUU-l- uaL, by Corporal Wall. 17o THE JURY: Approximately how long would it take to gather your equipment together, leave your head? quarters, or your home, and get to Moraine Lake? A I would say roughly half an hour. Half an hour? a We are pretty well prepared for anything in that area. Thank you. WALL: Just one question if I may, sir. THE CORONER: surely. RE-EKAHINES THE WITNESS: With reference to Mr. Prowse's questions, Mr. Woodwarth, I believe he was referring to Mount Bundle on one occasion where he asked you if you would recommend a guide; what is the trail, or what is the condition of the trail up Mount Bundle? A To my knowledge it is good. Is it a hard climb? A No, it isn't an extreme climb, and I don?t believe it would be necessary to have a guide. Is there any rock work necessarythe trail goes, the trail terminates. It is merely a good afternoon's walk? A That's correct. Thank you. Gal-f. Woodwarth, EX, by the Coroner, 112T 1128 1129 1151 1132 1133 1134 1135 EHE COEONER THE WITYESS 13> F3 1. -171- Just one or two questions I have, hr. Woodwarth. Is this new certificate which you referred to, does it have any differ nt information on it than this one has? No, not an awful lot, it is worded probably a little different than that. a slight difference in the wording? Shat's right. Has it ary printed regulations on its reverse? No. In the course of your work, Mr. Woodwarth, I would expect that from time to time you would have come across people in the process of climbing? Yes we do. That is across parties climbing? That's right. And in the course of those duties of yours you would have conversation with them? That right. If you saw them in mountain trails That's right. -- would you ever ask them for their registration certificate? We do. That is part of your Our duty. Mr. G.P. Woodwarth, EX, by Coroner. 1136 1137 an is 1158 E) 1139 A 1140 JD 1141 1142 172 duty to ask and inspect their certificates of registration? That's right. Now I gather that you fill out quite a number of these? Yes, we do. And have filled out quite a number of these old forms? That's right. And you have told us that you haven't these forms this year? No. Would you examine this form, which is exhibit number 2, and tell me in your opinion whether it is completely satisfactory as far as Mount Bundle is concerned? Yes, I would say it was: all right, the only thing is we we could question the thing in this manner, it says Head Guide 0. D. Dickerson, wedl, we wouldn't consider him a guide, would we? That is a point I wish you to observe. What about the notation ?Returned to? and the two dates noted, do you find those misleading, you will notice the date at the top? Well, on the signature on the bottom, the signature of the guide on there and ?Returned to"; when we have those forms and they are returned to, that's when we date them, when the parties return, they return them to Lake Louise on August 5th, ot whatever date it might be. Yes, that is the information that you would want? Tee. mr. u.r. woouwaxnan Ex. by Coroner. -173.? 1143 In this particular case you would want the information returned to Banff? A That is right. On ours that is left open, the route and the destination is filled in and returned to is filled in when they return that slip, 1144 Not until they rturn that slip? A No, sir. 1145 Then that is returned to that place and the time? A That's right. 1146 Now you say that the notation here ?Head Guide O.B. Dickerson? with the address would not be satisfactory to you when you are filling it out? A No, I wouldn't say that, but he is in charge of the party, and someone could question as to whether he is a recog? nized guide, 1147 Now would you, if you were requested to issue such a certificate, direct any questions? A I would ask him if he was in charge of the party and acting as a guide. I 1148 ind would you go further beyond that? A I don't suppose we would have cause to if he 1as accepted the responsibility of the party. 1149 a You wouldn't ask him any questions with regard to his qualifications? a fell, we always do, we have made it a habit for a long time, anyone going climbing we as: if they have climbed 1150 1151 1153 1154 l155 air. wooewarmn, Ex. by Coroner. aw JD A 1156 1157 174 and where they have climbed, and their ability and so forhh, as to their gear. 30 that you would require some information at that point? Absolutel . And the words "Packer" and ?Camp helper on ycur new form? They do in a way, that form is made out because we have pack trains going out. Oh yes. 30 that this actually has no reference to anything required in the particular climb in this case? It says on that peak train, and we note how many horses in the party, and so forhh. Yes, that is the purpose of that. Now I see here an item "Equipment ropes, pitons?? Yes. Is that sufficient information? Well, that depends on where they are going. To climb Mount Bundle, because this is issued for Mount Bundle? Yes. In fact would you require these? On Bundle? On Mount Bundle? Yes, you would in a sense if you have to go past the present existing trail. Mr. Gal". Exam by 1158 1159 1160 1161 1162 1163 a; W00dwarth, Cpl. Wall. 175 Supposing you were following the existing mapped trail, would you require them? No, not to my knowledge. he a matter of fact, if one has the inclination and the wind you can walk that trail pretty easily? Yes. We do question them on those things. I should say the desire. Because sometimes they stop and take a side trail, or a side issue and go up the mountain, similar to what the boys done, if the boys had stayed on that present trail they would come out in Paradise Valley, but they decided to turn and go up the mountain, so they turned and went up the mountain. So that insofar as Mount Bundle is concerned this is quite satisfactory? Yes, sir. Except that you would question this entry on the return date? Of course that could be an error too, somebody might have asked them when they expected to return, and they said, "Oh, half?past four.?, and put it down there. Yes, but apart from that though you consider this satisfactory. Yes. 1164 1165 1166 1167 1168 1169 1170 . u.r. woouwartn, Re?ex. by Cpl. Wall. ~176- CORPORAL WALL RE-EKAHINES THE WITNESS: Pr ?3 a: g) Just one further if I may, sir. Are permits issued, could permits be issued at Banff for climbing mountains in your area? They could be, Corporal, but we don't ask it, we ask that the people climbing in our areas register with us, and then we more or less know their actions whereby down here they wouldn't. Yes. Well, as a matter of fact between the Wardens them? selves are permits issued in Banff for persons climbing mountains in your area? Oh, hes, they have been. Are you notified in any way? Yes, as a general rule we are. By the Wardens that somebody will be climbing in your area? Yes, we work that among ourselves if they are climbing in areas outlying we contact the warden in the district either by phone or radio. Because you would be quite aware, if you issued a permit, of the parties that are climbing? That?s right. Thank you. THE CGEOTER RE-EXAMINES THE WITNESS: And arising out of that probably in the last question, in this particular instance did you get such notification from the Warden in Banff that someone was going to climb 1171 1172 1173 1174 1175 . Hag?L Val-Au, Re?ex. by Coroner. A A 177 Temple? None whatsoever. Could you tell me one more thing, Mr. Woodwarth, were there any other climbers on Mount Temple prior to this in? cident? Not to my knowledge. That is as far as you know there were no certificates issued? No. To climb Mount Temple? No. And that this party in this particular case would then be the first? Yes, in that area actually climbing, but there had been one party previous to that had gone up the same valley and over Sentinel Pass. But they hadn't gone up Temple? No, they hadn't climbed Tmeple. CORPORAL WALL: It is 12:20, sir. THE CORONER: Yes, I think probably it's a good time to adjourn for lunch. About two o'clock? COEPORAL WELL: Two o'clock, sir. I declare this Inquest adjourned until two p.m. (Adjournment)- 178 Afternoon Session. CORPORAL HELL: Order. I declare this Inquest re?opened in the name of the Queen. Will the jurors remain standing please. The rest of you may sit down. Will the jurors answer their names as they are called. Cyril Paris. MR. PARIS: Here. GORPORAL WALL: John Watter. MR. WATTER: Here. CORPORAL WALL: Alexander Macdonald. MR. F-0DONALD: Present. GORPORAL HALL: Charles Fullbrook. MR. FULLBROOK: Here. CORPORAL WALL: George Reid. MR. REID: Here. CORPORAL WALL: mohn Dignall. MR. DIGNALL: Here. THE CERONER: Continue please, Corporal. CORPORAL WALL: Sir, are there any questions of the last witness, Mr. Woodwarth? THE CORONER: Do you wish to have Mr. Wood? warth recalled? Have you any questions? coaroait WALL: All right, sir. Mr. Pettaway. .LJUJ. LJJ- UJALJ. d- Ex. by Cpl. Wall. BERTRAM 529 Martan Street, Banff, Alberta, having been duly sworn, examined by Corporal Wall, testifie? as follows: 1176 You may sit down if you wish. what is your employment, Mr. Pettaway? A Assistant Chief Park Warden, Banff. 1177 And how long have you been so employed? A About 15 months. 1178 What was your previous place of employment? y. I Banff National, Waterton National Park. 1179 And what was your official status in that park? A Park Warden, Grade 2. 1180 Have you specialized in any phase of Park Warden service during your career, Mr. Pettaway? A Mountain climbing and rescue. 1181 Mountain climbing and rescue work. Have you taken any courses to qualify you in that regard? A In 1949 I took a rock climbing course in the Glacier Park, Montana, U.S.A. In, I stand corrected on the year, about three years ago I took the mountaineering and avalanche school in this Banff Park. Last year I took an intense course of mountaineering and avalanche training at Salt Lake City, Utah. I have been in charge of all iastructions in tte Eanff Park since I have been 1 cere. 1182 1185 1184 1185 1187 nertram rettaway, Ex. by Cpl. Wall. A 1% - 180 Those three courses are Specialized courses, are they, Mr. Pettaway? Yes, I was sent on them from Ottawa. Sponsered by the National Park. Prior to your service with the Parks what were you doing? Oh, I worked for the National Parks, and I spent nearly seven years in the army. In what capacity? Oh, I was all ranks up to a full Lieutenant, and I specialized in mountain warfare, and combat, and instructed on the same, And you are presently employed as an instructor when required in Banff National Park on mountaineering and avalanche control, is that correct? I am in charge of all instruction and supervision of all training in the Park. Mr. Pettaway, I am showing you a certificate of regis- tration. What is that? That's a certificate of registration put out by Otta a to all National Parks. It requires parties, pack horse parties, hikers and mountain climbers to register both out and in, which includes the outfitter, the head guide, as equipment they carry, the route and destination. ?ery good, sir. I am showing you Exhibit 2, Mr. Pettaway. -nis i: the old form, the certificate of registration, and it was rep?aceo on the recommendation of this (Kafka 1188 1189 1190 1191 1192 1193 1194 Bertram Pettaway, Exam by Cpl. Wallthat they be made into a smaller compact folder so the Wardens could carry them on their horses. It entails the same information, but it is just cut down to a small form. Exhibit number 2 then is obsolete and is replaced by the present form that I have just shown you? That is correct. And contains exactly the same wording on both sides? That's right. Would you just examine the back.of the original? They are in duplicate. Would you examine the back of the original on the second form? No, there is none on the second form. TEE CORONER: Yes, there is inside. CORPORAL WALL: Would you look at it, Mr. Pettaway, please? Oh. The wording is at or near the same as it was on the old form. Mes, it is just the modern smaller form? It is cu down for the ease of handling. Thank you. May I have the second form marked, sir. THE CORONER: Yes, we can mark the Exhibit number 9. 1195 1196 1197 1198 1199 1200 cam .L Exam by Cpl. Wall. 33 k, g; - 182 CORPORAL WALL: 9 is correct. DOCUMENT THEN MARKED AS EXHIBIT 9. WALL: Mr. Pettqway, we have heard evidence that a party listed on Exhibit number 2 climbed Mount Bundle July 9th of this year. Were you aware of that climb? Not at the time, sir. Were you later aware of it? I was informed tn the following day that a party had climbed, were climbing Bundle and had returned. I can't tie it in to this exact party. You were aware that a party had climbed Mount Bundle and had returned? That's right. Ycu believe this to be on Sunday? Yes. Could you state what time on Sunday? I think it was in the afternoon, I cannot say for sure. ?ould I elaborate a little bit on that? Yes. Not particularly on this case. As you probably all know this clause "or mountain climbing" is a new clause in the Park regulations. and it requires peeple returning to report, or hand in the original slip to the place so designated by the Superintendent, which means an 1201 A 1202 A 1203 A 1204 A 1205 A 1206 A 120? a J. -183- Information Bureau, Warden Office, Or any farh Warden. Now I have, I am on call in town here all the time, and I have a werhing arrangement with the Information Bureau that anything that comes in to report it to me. And you had been advised that the party had returned on the Sunday?- That's right. And you took, then took no further interest in the matter? That's right. Going on to the late afternoon of July llth, Mr. Pettaway, did you have any contact with the Chief Park Warden at that time? Ees. What time then would this be? At approximately six o'clock. And what was the nature of the contact which you had? The Chief Park'?arden had received word from Warden Woodwarth in the Louise area that there had been a fatality on Mount Temple, and I was warned to stand by, at which time I contacted Perrin and Campbell, my other rescue partners, and just stood by waiting for further information f4 93 this confirmed? Around seven o'clock We had a confirmation from the Park Superintendent and the Chief Park Warden that an accident had occurred and there were a number of boys in it. And what action did you take? The rescue team, we proceeded to the Wardens' equipment Bertram Pettaway, . Ex, by Cpl. Wall. 184 building and loaded every bit of rescue equipment that I deemed necessary, which included a considerable number of articles. 1208 I wonder if you would just relate the articles taken on this rescue trip? a We took four mine rescue baskets, which are the aluminum metal which we use on mountain steep terrain; two canvas stretchers; we took several 200 feet 7/16th inch nylon rope; several waist ropes; snap links; pitons; rucksacks; A. '1 emergency fooa; lots of first id et1uipment; 20 blankets for the use of brin ngi ng: personnel off the mountain, not for sleeping in; fl as hli Mt special f1ashliah1ts for that work, we took three or four of those plus a.Carton of extra batteries. We were all dressed for mountaineer? ing, climbing boots, plus fours or overalls, and warm clothing. 1209 Yes? a There was probably a few other things I have forgotten. 1210 And then you proceeded to Moraine Lake, is that it? A As soon as we were loaded we pulled out for Moraine Lame. 1211 and what time did you arrive a Moraine Lake, hr. Pettaway? A At or near nine?thirty. 1212 a Yes, and what did you do then? a We contacted the Chief Warden actually, and Warden Woodwarth to find out the pertinent info as good u_1 acquire, and immediately brdered a lunch irom the moraine Lake peeple, them work on a 1213 1214 1215 1216 1217 1218 1219 1220 1221 nertram rettaway, Ex, by Cpl. Wall. A "b A $3 185 lunch to send yp later, and we atlit up all the articles among the lS?odd men that we had, including acting Warden Perrin, Campbell and myself in charge of the party. By the time we had gotten as much information as we could, the lunch was ready, so we indluded that in our own. And from whom did you get information? From Warden Woodearth and Chief Warden Ashley. Anyone else? No. Did you see the leader of this party there? Not Dickerson, I saw Oeser. And then you left for?? We proceeded on foot to the scene of the accident. Yes. Did you meet anyone on the way? Yes, several parties. Did you meet any of the injured personnel on the way up? Well, I think it is Ballard we met with acting Warden Gilsdorf carrying him about two miles from Moraine Lake Lodge. Was ther anyone else in.this party? Dickerson was in taht bunch. Did you speak to Dickerson at this time? I tried to. Explain that, please. Well, he found outthat I was the leader of the party, and he naturally volunteered information which was, I Ex. by Cpl. Wall: 186 - could see he was in a very upset state of mind, and we found out that the information he did try to give us was completely erroneous and very misleading. He wasn't in a state to help anyone. 1222 Did he return with you? No he did not. I knew I-had?to haveesomeone who could take us to the starting point, and in View of the fact that Gilsdorf, one of my acting Wardens, had worked hard I con? sidered it better strategy on my part to allow Dickerson and the other two who were in that party, who we had questioned, could take the other boy down, I think it was Ballard. 1225 Yes? A I asked Dickerson and the other two if they could handle him, and they said, and so I took Gilsdorf to help us get kicked off. 1224 That is back to the base camp? Back to the base camp. 1225 Yes, and what action did you take when you got to the base camp? A Well, as soon as we got there Perrin and two others took off up the middle of the bottom snowfield. The .A. remainder of the party under my supervision skirted 4. both flanks, that is the right and left flank looking up on the north side of the mountain, or I should say 1226 1227 1228 .1: away Em. by Cpl. Wall. 187 - the south side of the mountain, and continued on up the. mountain they way. I am showing you Exhibit number 4, Mr. Pettaway, Does this portray the scene? Yes, pretty well. I wonder if you would point out to the Coroner and the Jury just in what direction you took off? I would like?- If you refer to any other photographs would you kindly refer to them by the number written in pen and ink on the back? Eight. Sir, I would like to point out that this photograph is taken a little later than the scene of the accident and therefore there is a little difference in the snow con? ditions as they were then. THE CORONER: Yes, we understands that is taken about a week or ten days later. Yes. the base camp was in approximately Just behind here, down over this little rise. CORPOEIL WALL: Do you wish that marked, sir? THE CORONER: Yes, would you have him?? WALL: Would you just mark that with an please, the approximate position of the base camp. 1229 1230 1231 .. A by Cpl. Wall; 188 - It is down in behind here, but that will be it. Mind you, by the time we got here we had five miles of fairly heaVy slugging with personnel who some of them weren't used to it. We more or less regrouped there to count heads, and then we started up this bottom snow field, which the snow of course was away down here at that time. Perrin and two others took the centre of the snow field; two other parties Jhich included the stretcher bearers and the bla'het carriers and the first aid personnel, we followed in the rear and flanked this, because we had been told by Dickerson that there were several boys on the right?hand side of the snow here. Now that's the way we continued up the first. Do you want me to carry on from there? No, that's fine. We will refer to these exhibits again. Can you tell us the weather conditions at this time? They were, at this time it had cleared off. What had there been previots to this? There had been a very hot day, which consequently ter? minated in rain squalls, which had cleared off to that time of night to a rather kind of a half-moon, a clear night, a good night, a good crisp night. Now then, we have your party, your party skirting the snow field with Perrin and the two other members going un n} the centre of the snow fiell That's right. 1232 1233 1234 1235 1236 1257 EX. by Cpl. Wall. a? .o El A -189? Did anyone contact you while you were climbing up? We weren't contacted by anyone on the snow field. Did you later see or hear from Walter Perrin? Yes, when we continued -- if you will note by the pictures there is a small funnel up to the top of the first snow field. Can you see that funnel in any of these exhibits, Mr. Pittaway? I think probably in one. Those are the same as these. I see. This funnel right here. That is the funnel, that is Exhibit number 4. Could you mark that with an 0 please. Right on the Right Where the funnel is. Thank you. Yes? Walter Perrin and the two others had continued on up the funnel, and in the course of our search we did not find any sign of victims or injured on the bottom snow field, and of course we congregated at or near the funnel, but'Walter Perrin in his search through the funnel into the top area had fpund injured and bodies, and he signalled to us by means of a lantern, and by word of mouth, to bring the stretchers straight up the middle of the funnel. What was the condition of the snow at this time, Mr. Pittaway? The snow was stable. bertram rittaway EX, by Cpl. Wall. 190 1239 Yes? A And at that time of night it is quite reasonable safe to, if you have to, to traverse the snow field owing to the temperature from the, it has cooled off from the heat of the day, and either that time of nigit or very early morning is the only possible time that you should cross a snow field. 1240 Yes. and Walter Perrin hollered at you to bring up a stretcher? A That's right. 1241 Did you take this stretcher up? A We took, we took all the stretchers, we kept working them up the snow field, it was very steep, not so terrifically steep, but it was hard work, and we just kept working the stretchers up the funnel to where Walter was. 1242 And was he alone? . A No, Walter had two others, he was with Dr., the doctor from the Chateau. 1243 Dr. Sutton? A Dr. Sutton, and acting harden Sohauerte, who had preoeeded us up there. 1244 Yes. Did you find any members of the party up there? The victims? 1245 a fee? \Ml' 1246 1247 1249 1250 Bertram Pittaway, Ex. by Gpl. Wall. Ii a Yes, we found Clattenburg, who was the boy with the in? jured head, and Willie Wise I believe is the next chap,l and there were three others; I hesitate to call them by name, I don?t remember. Was Glattenburg, Clattenburg was alive, of course? Clattenburg had received attention from the doctor and was living. Yes, and how about Wise? Wise was in a rather bad state, and by the time we got the stretcher had died. Sir, there is some discrepancy between the two witnesses as to the name of this latter person, however, I think that is quite easily explained. THE GCROHER: Yes, I don't think it it significant. I stand correction on Wise?s name, I don't know. Yes; The other person had died after he had been put and wrapped on the stretcher? That?s right. And what was decided then, Mr. Pittaway? Perrin and I got together, we immediately, of course, took Clattenburg on the mine rescue basket, wrapped Lim, tied him in and had the doctor check him ready for quick exit, and Eerrin and i had a matting and it was decided that we take the wounded keeping him on the move towards Moraine Lake. Walter Perrin with H, ive others, who were 1251 . A 1252 a a 1253 A 125 a Ex. by Cpl; wail. -192.? picked later by me, was to stay until first light in the_ morning, he would retrieve what bodies he had found and look for the other missing two, there were still two missing. Then you returned down to the base camp, is that correst? We all brought Clattenburg over the cliff and down the snow field to the base, at or near the base, and we gave all the lunch that we had to Perrin's party, we hadn't stopped for lunch, we kept moving. I took 11 others plus myself and proceeded with Clattenburg to Moraine Lake. Yes, and at this time the eight remaining boys had all been located? No, no they had not because Walter was going to leave, he was going to eat a bite of lunch and go up about day? light to make a hasty search and see if he could find the remaining bodies, In any event he was going to bring the remainder who were dead down to the bottom of the slide area. And you returned to the Lodge with Clattenburg and the balance of your party? That's right. Was any further action taken with regard to moving the bosied off the mountain? Perrin and myself considered it a hazard to be moving bodies down the snowfield with a quantity of men, someone else may get hurt. We consider- {n Cu it a wise move to get 1255 1256 1257 1258 J. Ex. by Cpl. Wall. - 193 - off the snow field with the injured, and then at a later date as soon as possible he and his party would proceed up the snow field and get them out before the heat of the day set in. Yes, that would be in the early morning of the following day? Yes. Did you make any arrangements to have the bodies brought out of that area? That's right. As soon as we got to Moraine Lake, which was roughly four o'clock in the morning, the Park Super? intendent, the Chief Warden and Warden Woodwarth were there, and I made arrangements for seven pack horses to be delivered to the Moraine Lake area as soon as possible, at which time I would dispatch them to the slide area and pack the bodies out. Mr. Pittaway, I am showing you Exhibit number 3. What does that portray? That portrays, that is a shot on the south side of Temple looking south to give one an idea of the elevation that the tip of the slide finished on in relation to the other mountains. Yes, and in Exhibit number 5, which is similar to Exhibit 4, which you have previous]:r described, is a photo ed the south face of Temple Mountain? That's the south face looking north. Bertram Pittaway, Ex. by Cpl. Wall. 1259 1260 1261 1262 - 194 Looking north? Looking north at the south face. Yes. Photography is not always correct in what it portrays; could you indicate to the coroner and his jury the approx? imate degrees from the summit, the top of this mountain in Exhibit number 5, to the foreground? The degree hf the slope? Yes, generally speaking? Well, this is, this immediate picture in the foreground here up to the funnel is a coarse scree talus slope, I would say at about anywhere from 3- to 35 per cent slope, I stand correction on that. It was just a matter of tough going as far as walking and climbing is concerned, it is just heavy going. As you get up into the funnel area, or the cliff area, it either means that the slope is of course intensified there, it is quite a steep slope up to, up through that funnel; I would say, I stand correction too It is only an approximation. About 30, 35 degrees. Of course onue you get up past this funnel, up into where the tip of the slide started, finished, it is quite shallow, it is, I would say, about 20 degrees, but where the slide came from up to the top it is very precipitous, and almost straight up and down in spots, particularly these cliffs that shelve the snowihed Picture is deep and it usesn snow it to a wood (I 1265 1264 1265 1266 1267 bL't?L?l ..L L: is'uly EX. by Cpl. wall. a A l95 extent. It is reasonably steep here, quite steep in the funnel, at the tip of the slide it shallows off, that is! where the slide stOps, of course, where it is shallow, not so much grade, and the slide on up past this other ledge is vert precipitous and steep. And where did the avalanche start, can you show it on that photograph? The avalanche started at or near above third snow ledge as it shows on this picture, up in this area here. Above the third snow ledge. Could you mark that with a double This is just roughly. Yes. would you put two X's there, sir. That is on Exhibit number 5. THE CORONER: If you put three X's on it and a Saint Bernard dog underneath it everybody would be interested. THE JURY: Coukd you mark where this stopped? WALL: Yes. Do you want that marked too? Yes? The perSpective on this one kind of takes you off a little but. That is one where the snow stopped? This is it there where it stopped. JJUJK J: .L UCLW Lily ax. by Cpl. Wall. -196- A Roughly. 1270 What is scree? A Scree is broken sedimentary rock that brea*s into a shale formation; that is the smaller of the two, the talus, is in between the sores and big rocks, acres is the Small breaking up and talus is the coarse rock slope. 1271 Could you describe to the jury where the major portion of the snow came down in this funnel which you have described here? A Well, the snow came down from here, and came down right across this little stream in here, and it doesn't show the depth actually here. There is other pictures, I think, that would give you better perspective. 1272 If you can find one we will name it. A I think this would be prbbably a little bit better. 1273 That is Exhibit number 4? A Yes. That gives it a little better. It came from up in here, we think, and it landed here is the funnel we are talking about. 1274 That is marked with an on that photograph? A That's right, that's the funnel, and there is a little rock ledge here, and it landed just behind there, just behind this one, sir. THE CORONER: Yes. 1275 LORPOE TILL: How long was the path of this avalanche, Hr. Pittaway? 1276 1277 1278 1279 1280 Bertram Pittaway Ex. by Cpl. Wallwould say roughly about five to 600 feet. And the width? Oh, approximately 20. It would vary, of course, according to the funnel? That's right. And was there a pile?up of snow at the bottom? No, Just a normal Spring wet avalanche. A normal Spring wet avalanche? A small avalanche. Yes. Could you indicate to the jury the power of this avalanche? You describe it as a Wet avalanche, you mean wet snow? That's right. At this particular time of day, four o'clock in the afternoon, is when, it is when the sun is at its highest intensity, and it has great penetrating depth, and the characteristics of a wet snow slide are that they go right to the bottom, they are rather slow meving like sugar poured through something that restricts it, but nothing will step it in its path, it will go right to the bottom and take everything out with it. This was actually quite a shallow slide because it had slid over rocks, but they are powerful. 1hr. scacwma: Tiesxit would?be something like a semi-solid mass moving? That's right. It's just like pouring stiff through some? thing thick and it just pours like sugar or gravel. 0 1281 1282 1284 1285 1286 1287 may cream .L. L: saw any Ex. by Cpl. Wall. JD 33) -198- Or like concrete? That's right, that's how powerful it would be. CORPORAL Did you examine the clothing of some of the members of this party? I had occasion to notice it on four or five of the victims. And how were they dressed? Summer clothing. Some of them had baseball shoes on, light slacks, light, some of them had light sweaters on. I am showing you some rope, Mr. Pittaway. Do you know what this is? I Yes, this is rope that was taken off the victims in the avalanche. Is it all of the same size? Well, there is a little but generally most of it is quarter inch manilan that's here, this is quarter inch. It was used to bring bodies out with the pack horses. Could I have that entered, sir. I haven't a tag, here, sir. THE CORONER: Oh, we will pack it in the box. Exhibit number 10. ROPE THEN ELRKED AS EXHIBIT lO GORPOREL Did you have any personal knowledge of removing this rcpe from the bodies? No, halter Perrin I think will go into that, I didn't remove any of the rope from the bodies. But you say this rope was used? That's right. 47.1. L: umway Ex. by Cpl. Wall. - 199 - 1289 To bring the bodies down to tie them in the baskets? That's right. 1290 And to bring them down into Moraine Lake Lodge. I am showing you another piece of rope, Mr. Pittaway. What is this? A This is thecproper mountaineer's climbing rope, it is seven-sixteenths inch nylon, with about a two ton strain capacity on it. It is a rope that is used by all competent climbers. There are other sizes used, but that is the one that is generally used. 1291 Could I have that marked, sir? THE CORONER: Exhibit 11. ROPE THEN MARKED AS EXHIBIT ll. CORPORAL WALL: I can get a tag later if I may. THE CORONER: I will write small so no one can read it. 1292 GORPORAL WALL: Previous evidence has been given to this inquest, Mr. Pittaway, that eleven of these boys were tied together, and I believe I am correct in saying the record indicates that they were tied in one party approximately five feet between them. Is that right?- Perhaps I had better check what I have said. THE CORONER: While Corporal Wall is checking this, Mr. Pittaway, what type of rope was used prior to the availability of nylon? 1294 1295 1299 1300 IJ. bbh?a?lctj Ex. by Cpl. WallHemp. Hemp? Italian hemp was the popular one. And what was the diameter width? Well, it varies, of course, the same as nylon does. The most pOpular is seven?sixteenths. I think the European is a little different size in millimeters. Mr. Perrin has rope like ours but it is a little bigger. I believe they used eleven millimeter rope, it that about the same? It's a little bigger. It's a little bigger than this? That?s right. And formerly they used hemp instead of nylon? That's right. How does the strength of hemp compare with the strength of this rope here? I don't know sir. You mean that manila? The manila? Hemp and manila? Yes? Well, there is a lot of things against manila. It thightens, you can't get it undone, and it's very coarse to your skin if it were to catch you, it is not strong, it's got no tensil strength. There is Special qualifications 1-354- U-L MILL J- Ex. 1501 1502 A 1503 1 3 by Cpl. Wall. 201 - of a climbing rope, particularly nylon, why it takes precedence over the hemp, is that when one is climbing and he falls it is elastic, and it therefore prevents choking a person, or really injuring them. That's why they use nylon now. Go ahead. CORPORAL WALL: Thank you, sir. On page 33 of the transcript the witness Smith stated, we Were about five feet apart on the rope.", that is question 202. The witness Woodfiled on page 48 states they were seven to eleven feet apart. Have you anything to say in regard to the distance apart the parties were tied when climbing on rock and snow? Yes, a set mountaineering principle is never any more than four on a rope. The best climbing team on rock is two, sometimes you have to use three, Two is twice as quick and twice as easy. The reason they use four, that is in the United States and Canada, in crossing snow fields they feel that three have a much better chance of getting the leader if he were to fall in a crevasse. That is the only reason they put four on a rcpe, never any more, about, approximately, as a general rule, 20 to 50 feet apart. That method is used, Mr. Pittaway, in tying together? mean in normal climbing, or in that particular area? 1505 1306 1507 1308 1309 Bertram Pittawai EX. by Cplthat particular area? I wouldn't have gone into that area, sir. Well, in normal climbing then, Mr. Pittaway? Well, I would use waist ropes and either carabineers or snap links, as the slang is, and tying the normal bowlines, which is mountaineering technique. Now then, getting back to your other answer, what would be, why would you not go into that area? Well, If I could use the picture to illustrate? Yes, if you will identify it by the number on the back? Referring to The written number, Mr. Pittaway? Yes, to Exhibit number 5; lines of approach in mountain? eering technique, one always uses the rock approach when you are climbing a mountain. The only place there is snow on this mountain is right in the middle of the bowl, and that is absolutely against mountaineering principles, you cross up the rock ledge on the left here which is the proper route as given in the books, I believe. This rock face, you wouldn't even need rope, you can walk right up to the top of the mountain, but in here you have the whole mountain sitting on top of you, particularly that time of day. It's a ,errific thina to do Why at that time of day? hell, whenever you cross snow fields it has to be in the 1310 .41.. by Cpl. Wall. 205 early morning when the temperature has changed and the snow is and firm, only then should you cross it. On page 62 of the transcript, Mr. Pittaway, W.H. Oeser stated at question 438 when he was asked, ?And what equip? ment did you take, Mr. Oeser??, the answer, ?We had some extra shoes and socks, some of the boys had baseball shoes with spikes on them, there were two sets of crampons, there were some rOpes, I don't recall offhand how long, how many feet; we had pitons, piton hammers and so forth, pitons for both snow and rock climbing.? Could you in? dicate to the jurors the equipment required for an ascent of Mount Temple during, shall I saw, a safe period of time in the late summer? They should have good climbing boots, they should be equipped with clothing that is light but warm there are lots of firms that put out good clothing that is light but 31! warm they should take extra socks, and a?sweater, or sweater, additional clothing, they should have ice axes, they should carry proper climbing ropes, which is, the accepted one in our country is seven?sixteenth inch nylon, it is optional whether you use the 100 or 200 foot length; as a general practice it is usually three ona 100 foot rope, they should nave good sunglasses, they should most important have an up?to?date map of the area concerned. 1311 Ex. by Cpl. Wall. 204 - they should have food, they should set out excuse me,- I am getting ahead of myself -- they should take ice and rock pitons if they are considering climbing a glacier or rock wall, piton hammer, they should have snap links. either quarter inch manila waist ropes, or quarter inch nylon, or hemp; they should have separate waist rcpes to the climbing rope, that is hazardous and dangerous, you can't got off it once you are stuck; they should have enough food to take them by emergencies, they should have powdered drink, a very essential thing in hot climbing conditions, a powdered drink, it is much easier to carry it that way than in the can, the type of trousers they will give them free movement of the legs and don't restrict their bodies if they are figuring on climbing. I think that covers the general clothing, there may be some things I have left out. Yes. I have one last question, Mr. Pittaway, would you consider the ascent of Mount Temple during a safe period of time of the year and of the day as an easy climb to be taken by a party of inexperienced mountain climbers without proper guide? I have never been to the top of Mount Temple, I have been up on the avalanche slopes. 0 would prefer Mr. Perrin to answer that question. But as far as I went, and as much as I know of the mountain and the area that they went 1312 1314 Bertram Pittaway Ex. by Cpl. Wall . EX. by Mr. Prowse 205 they should definitely have had someone leading them that had knowledge of climbing, or else of the are concerned. That is all, thank you, sir. THE CORONEI: Have you gentlemen any questions: THE HURX: You were going to say some? thing about starting time for climbs like that? A Climbs of the type as Temple Mountain, you should be started as early in the morning as possible. The Swiss guides, and all peeple who do much climbing, always figure to get across hazardous areas the first thing in the morning that is before noon. a It is even better to start up Bundle Mountain about eight o'clock in theIm?gning rather than eleven? A Because the heat drags your energy, and it is much easier climbing, you have much more energy, and you move faster, it is safer. THE Any other questions, Mr. Prowse? MR. PROWSE THE The type of rcpe we have herem and the type of avalanche a that occurred, did, would other types of rope have had any different effect at that time in that avalanche? Do you follow? I think they were lucky in that they used a or quarter inch manila. ax. my mr;.rrowse. 1315 One that broke? A The one that broke. If they had been using probably nylon rope, and bad mountaineering tactics, as thay had, they would have all gone down. 1316 68 And one other question that has crossed my mind is that you do have patrols, and I notice you have mentioned, and the previous warden mentioned, that he wouldn't climb Mount Temple at that time of the year? With the service and the patrols that you carry on, is there any posting in any of the Tourist Information Centres of the mountains tia' you consider should not be climbed at that time of year? A None whatever. 1317 And you open them later for climbing? A None. 1318 a There is no attempt to do that. And I noticed that when Mr. Woodwarth was giving his evidence this morning that in Lake Louise Mr. Woodwarth on his wife, who has lived in mountains a good part of his life, and her life, I take it from his evidence, diSpense permits for mountain I-l climbing; notice that in Banff a woman with no eXperience in mountai climbing at all gives out the permits. Did that just happen that day, or is that the atandard practise Hell, sir, we have reaulations, section 23 of the General I ?arh Regulations, and Clause a an r5quest anyone who is going on a trip that entails staying overnight, or LJ-J 207 mountain climbing, register out. Now we are trying, and have been trying, and we still are going to try to get everyone who has the issuance of these permits qualified mountaineers. 19 at the present time to be permitted to sign a permit you don't have to be a qualified mountaineer? A 'Well, it's not that easy, they don't just sign it, they either request the Warden in the district who has had it, 01 the nearest Warden, ot the Chief Warden, or myself if they can to get pertinent information to the party concerned and the mountain. ?20 Well, we did have a case here with reSpect to the permit on Mount Bundle, granted by a woman who as soon as, I think she said that talk came up about climbing Bundle, and she referred her to another girl downstairs, and that person, Mr. Dickerson, I take it, was not contacted by, nobody suggested going up Mount Rundle you should leave early in the morning, I believe it was ten o'clock in the morning when he was granted the permit, and I don't think there is any suggestion that the person he was talking to mentioned the clothing that you feel would be essential on a mountain climb. #5 Just a minute, sir. Mount Eundle is a little different than iemple, It is an organized walk to the end of the trail, and as a general rule most of the oeople go just :or the walk, not the climb. percram :ibtaway EX. by Mr. Prowse. - 208 - 1321 Is there a climb on Bundle also? A You can find a climb on any mountain. 1522 I take it that the boys in question had climbed Bundle and not gone on the organized walk I am not certain if I am right. You cannot tell from the permit whether or not they were going to climb or just take the organized walk? A No. 1325 Well, that is what I had in mind; if you had a qualified mountaineer filling out the permit that person would want to know that one question, whether the party to whom he is granting the permit was walking or climbing? A I quite agree. 1324 You do feel that it is more satisfactory in the long run if a qualified mountaineer was in charge of releasing or granting permits? A Could I elaborate a little bit? 1325 Yes? We would certainly like to have mountaineers at every one of these umpteen different places, which includes every road within our parks as a tentative danger area. We have thousands of people in this park every week, and regardless, we stand criticism, and we want to have moun? taineers signing these people out, but will it answer the purpose? I don't think it will. 1326 I thibh you have gone back to the question. I am just 1327 EX. by Mr. Prowse. A -209- EL U) king an opinion from a person who has had a great deal. of eXperience in the mountains, and we have a place now where we are referred to for information, sothe person who takes enough initiative on his own to go to the place where he should get the information, that would be a good place to start to give the information by having a quali? fied mountaineer handling that document. Do you not agree with that? I agree with you. Ies. I think that is all, thanks. THE JURY: Mr. Dickerson could have found that information if he wanted it, couldn't he? Yes, I think that anyone who is interested enough in climbing any mountain; that is one of the basic mountain- eering principles, that you don't go slapdash and tie into something without asking information of someone at or near the mountain source, that is one of the principles of mountaineering. MR. PROWBE: I might ask one more question. THE CCRORER: Yes. ER. PEOUSE: Now the question of quides, will you describe what a guide is? Well, we save fish guides, outfitting nuiles mountain 5 climbing guides, wild life guides. I think you mean Du mountaineering guide, do you? 1530 1331 1332 1533 ??wuv-Ilv?d, EX. by Mr. Prowse. A 210 Yes? Well, we have one sitting right there, Walter ferrin, who has spent his whole life, raised and schooled on mountain climbing. Well, I had this in mind, how do I find a guide? Well, the National Park Service does not provide guides, and there is no organized guiding outfitter in this Park for mountain climbing. I take it that if I went down into a store and asked where a guide was they might say so-and-so was a guide? That's right. And the so-and?so who says he is a guide is more or less a self-appointed guide, that is there is no approval of guides like we have approval of accommodation? We have certificates in our office, a written questionnaire of about 16 questions, that before the issuance of a guide license in the National Park we have to get a written rec- ommendation from the man who he works for, plus the 18 questions that we ask him is on what hinges whether he gets a guide's license or not. Now I am not speaking of rock climbing guides, I am speaking of guides, pony bullies generally. We have not had anyone in for rock climbing guides. That, I don?t think any other National Park has either, except Mr. Perrin and the Swiss guides who were hired by the G.P.R. from Switzerland to guide in the Lake hertram rittaway Ex, by Mr. Prowse Ex. bu Coroner. - 211 Louise area. 1334 But they are not in Operation this year? A No, not this year. 1335 Mr. Perrin is here, I can Speak to him about that? A lea. 1336 Then you don't have alist of qualified mountain climbing guides down at your office, but you would know people who you might think Iwould be better off with than somebody else, I take it? A No, we won't recommend anyone, it has nothing to do with US. n-Q 1357 You don't purport to draw up a list A No, the National Parks say that any people who go out over? night, or climb a mountain must register with a Park Warden. $3 1338 That is all. THE CORONER THE WITNESS: 1339 Actually, Mr. Pittaway, this slip of paper that we have been referring to as Exhibit number 2 or 3, they are not permits to climb a mountain? A No. I mean?? 1340 I mean in issuing one of these you don't give them per? mission to climb, you simply take cognizance of the Pact Cl. peeple are intending to climb? -3- Ehat right. In other words to put it crudely we want to DUI exam :1 0 new my Ex. by Coroner. know where to get them out from. 1541 That's rigit. And if I decided, perish the thought, that I should want to climb Mount Temple tomorrow, I can go ahead and climb it without the benefit of this piece of paper at all? A Providing the Warden doesn't catch you. 1342 and if in the event the Warden does catch me, waht can he do about it? A He can advise you intelligently, nothing else. 1543 a That's right, I mean there is no i There is no regulation. 1344 There is no regulation punishing me, or preventing me from doing it a all, he can advise me that if I had any brains I would get down? A There is a regulation in, I think, you will find Section 23 paragraphs a and b, which read any guide or outfitting part pr party, or mountain climbing party that goes out must (place so designated by the Superintendent, which means any Warden Station, any Information Bureau, Warden's office or anything connected with the Park Superintendent. 1345 4 There is a regulation which says he must reg?ste?? A And he must come back in too and tell us. but to your knowledge, one you have been here some take Hount Bundle as an example' for the 1347 1348 1349 I..L lJ UtiWi?l-?y L. '1r? 4.4.25. . A by Coroner. 215 number of people who get certificates of this type how many would you say are there that climb Mount Bundle without the benefit of this slip of paper? U2 Well, it' like Algebra, it's an unknown quantity, and we think it is considerable. I have rather the impression that the number who climb without this paper are far in excess of the number who have it? Well, that is a matter of one's own persnnal judgment and what they see, but I am quite safe in saying, I believe, that there are a number of people who climb without register- ing; either it's a trouble to them, or they have to go out of their way a little bit, probably it is not that, but there is a considerable number that don't take the trouble to register. Yes, I know, I have spoken to lots of them who haven't. 30 that this isn't actually a permit, it is simply to give you the information that they are It is just in case anything happens, it is for their own safety. That you will know where to find them? That if something happens, for instance a fire, and we have two parties registered say up tee S-rev River, they both left on a day that a fire happened; well, we can kind of deduct from the time element where they were in there, anu maybe one of those psrties started it. That?s 1350 1351 1354 1355 UJ. huh?. 4- .I- VI UJJ 311.?. . AD by Coroner. 214 Yes, I gathered that from the little note on the back with regard to campfire and lighted matches,and so on. There is one other thing that occurs to me that might be of benefit to both the jury ans myself; you have spohne of the regulation which you referred to, I think it is number 40? 23. 23 a and with reSpect to registration. That is the regulation presumably, or one of the regulations to which this note on the back of Exhibit refers to? That's right. Are these regulations available easily? Right, ten cents a copy to anyone. But apart from the ten cents a copy, could I walk into your office this afternoon and buy a set of regulations? Yes, not into my office, but into the Information Bureau. Do they have a supply of sufficient quantity? a certain sup?ly for the sale at ten cents each. This one that Corpora Wall has has all the Park regulations in it, and it is compiles for office use only, but there are inserts including all the various regulations that are on Ies. Would it not be advantageous to have regulations inent to mountain climbing printed on the been of a certificate such as this one I quite agree with you think so. 1359 Bertram Pittaway, 1143.. by Coroner. 215 Might it be advantageous to your service for the jury in its considerations to take note of this? I would like to see it. @f such a suggestion? I would like to see it go down in writing that the more pertinent regulations be printed on the back of these forms. Yes. considerable experience from what I take it, Mr. Pittaway, too, that you have had we heard at the first in mountain climbing and in having taken courses in Glacier, Banff, Salt Lake City, and so on, the Alpine Group in the Army. Do Jackson and slackfoot Glaciers in Yes, I was stationed north of the you are talking about? Yes? Yes, for some years. Now I don't glaciers, but I know at and where Do you know much of the climbing No, I don't know too much. Do you know anything about Swift Yes. Have you climbed it? I haven't climbed it, no. Do you know It is just more or less . f. "i 214 1 dangerous. there is and then your service in you know anything about Glacier Park? Glacier Park. Montana, know the history of the they are located. conditions there? ?urrent Mountain? something of the climbing conlitions there? noti a; really sertram rittaway, Ex. by the Opponer. - 216 1564 Nothing much of a climb? A No. You could, mind you, if you go off any recognized route on any mountain you will get in trouble right now. P: ox Ln Kesl we have had trouble on Bundle before too, haven't we? a Sure. But if they are on recognized routes they will be all right. 1366 Corpoal Wall in asking, in taking your evidence has skirted about certain questions without trying to direct you to give an answer. having regard to equip- ment you see here, having regard to the equipment you found on the ice field after the tragedy, and having regard to speaking to the people concerned, is your opinion that this was an adequatley equipped mountain hiking party, or was it not an adequately equipped one? a Defenitely not. 1567 Do you think from your discussion with Mr. Dickerson or Mr. Oeser that either of them had the experience necessary to direct and guide a group of 16 boys in a climb? if) Could I go a little bit further than that; they defenitely weren't mentally or physically equipped to handle boys; because the condition that I saw them in, a leader comes to the fore, and regardless of the complications he will I tahe over and handle it, and neither of these men had any 1-7.2? . .2 1. . oi those 1368 a Wha about their professional qualifications as climbers 1369 1370 1371 1372 1373 1374 1575 Bertram Pittaway, Ex. by Coronerfrom what you Their? Yes. Very sceptical, I don?t think they climbed anything. I gather from the evidence taken at the earlier inquest that one of the members of the camp, that is one of the, not one of the leaders or directors, but one of the bays had had some eXperience in mountain climbing in the Alps, CORPORAL WALL: Woodfield. THE CORONER: Woodfield. Did you have a chance to speak to him at all? No I did not, sir. How many experienced climbers would you, would in your Opinion be required to guide and direct a party of 16 boys? It's always better, the more the merrier sort of thing. You have given us your opinion before that in climbing conditions in Canada and the United States four to a rcpe is considered the safest? That is on snow and 109. On snow and ice? Never more than three on rock. No, I gathered that, I am thinking now of snow and ice. Now if the climbing group were relatively inexperienced, or totally ineXperienced, as it appears these boys were, and if an attemnt should be made to climb, say as in Lx. "was Coroner. 218 Mount Temple in this case, how many experienced climbers would you like for that group of l6? A Well, sir, it depends on the climber, and it depends on the guide, each guide is a personality by himself, and it depends on the area in question. 1376 Well, let's take the area in question which we have, and let us take your experience and your judgement, having done a fair amount of climbing? A In the first place a competent guide couldi'n take all those boys up that mountain very safely, the rock part, and they wouldn't have to do very little climbing. In a case like that one competent man that has handled climbers before could split them up into three or four groups and probably be very safe. But in the area concerned, where they were, if they did cross an area like that there are several methods of doing it. Crossing an area share there is a preponderance of snow -- may I use one of these? 1577 Ees, surely, refer to it by it's written number. A This is Exhibit.4. You take crossing in snow areas like ?this, there are two ways of attaching it, you either skirt it and stay out of it -- 1378 Xes? A this way or taht way, or if you have to cross a snow field you get up as high as you can because there is less preponderance of snow above you, For instance bertram rittaway, Ex. by Coroner. 219 - crossing in the middle here, you have got much more snow. crossing in here you have much more snow above you than you would crossing in there. 1379 Yes? A and if you were to cross this snow field high up you would probably cross it singly with a lookout, you would post a lookout; if it was a dangerous condition at that time of day and you had to cross it, and there was no other way out, you would post a lookout to watch for avalanche, and you would cross it singly. If you have to cross it wn here, well, I just wouldn't cross it, and I don't think anyone else that was a competent climber would dare to cross the place there, because it's the only snow there is on-the mountain, that time of year, that time of day is just asking trouble. 1380 Yes. The situation is then in your opinion the equipment and the preparations, and the training for that type of trip were inadequate? A Definitly so. 1381 Are there any further questions gentlemen? GORPOELL WALL: I have one, sir, if I may. THE COEONER: Surely, Corporal.w TM: r13" . 'r HALL. lIiJ: 1382 From your examination of the avalanche, Er. Pittaway, i the avalanche path, is it your opinion that the avalanche 1383 1584 13 by Cpl. wail. Dr. P. G. Gostigan Ed. by Cpl. Wall. A LU Wall, would have come down in any event whether the boys were' on that mountain or not at this time? Defenitely. I think the slide path was started from sun, it was a sun slope, and I would say the snow started from a greater height than they were and just swept them. In other words they did not trigger the avalanche? No, they didn't out it, I don't think. That is all, sir. TIE CORONER: Any further questions, Mr. Prowse? Isa. PROWSE: Ho. TFE CORONER: Thank you; GORPORAL WALL: Order. I declare this Inquest adjourned for five minutes. (Five minute adjournment). CORPOEIL WALL: I declare this Inquest re-opened in the name of the Queen. Dr. Costigan. DR. PATRICK GERALD CCSTIGAN anff, Alberta, having been duly sworn, examined by Corporal testified as follows: Doctor, you are a duly qualified medical practitioner practicing in Eanff, Alberta and registered with the College of Physicians at Edmonton, Elberta? Ees, Corporal. In the evening, doctor, of July -- pardon me the Dr, P.G. Costigan, EX. by Cpl. Wall. - 221 afternoon of July 12th, doctor, I believe you examined the bodies of seven boys? A I did. 1587 Did you make a report of that examination, doctor? a Yes, Corporal. 1388 And would you read your report to the Court please? A These are the names of the boys who were killed in the avalanche on Mount Temple on July llth, and their respective injuries. The first one was Marble; multiple severe lacerations of the face, rope burn on the posterior aspect of the neck, four inch laceration over the right knee joint, fracture of the left ankle, multiple abrasions of the left lower leg, severe rope burns on both thighs. The second one is Seddon; deep laceration about one and one-half inches long on the right temple, lips cruised and lacerated, compound fracture Cf the left femur, multiple bruising of the right knee and right lower leg, lacerations the knuckles of the right hand, and multi?le severe bruises the lower a:domen. The third one, Baylis, R.J.: Penetrating injury over the left eye, approximately two inches long, which ap pears to be associated with a frac? tured skull, three lacerations approximately five inches long on scalp. bleeding from the left ear, multiple one is Shaping Laceration on the bach of the head approx? imately two inches wide and three inches ions wrist appears to be fractured, knuckles of the right hand Ex. t? ?pl. Wall. - 222 - badly skinned and severe rope burn on the inner marginal left thigh, the inner margin of the left thigh it should' be. Watts: Face and head appear to be badly swollen, skin is lacerated over the knuckles of both hands, appears to have a fractured neck and a fracture at the base of the skull. The sixth one, Baylis, J.T.: Fractured right femur, fracture of the right kneecap, fracture of the metacarpal bones of the left hand, gash over the right eye, scalp is badly torn and lacerated, severe bruising over both hips. And the seventh one, Willie Wise: Multiple severe lacerations of the face, severe bruising of both knees and lower legs, fracture in the region of the right hip, fracture of both bones of the left wrist, deep hole over the left ear. 1389 Thank you, doctor. I don?t think we need sorry about the second phase, that concerns the injured persons only? A That is correct. 1390 It is of no concern here. Could I have that entered as an exhibit, doctor? THE CORONER: Exhibit number 12. REPORT THEN MARKED AS EXHIBIT l2. CORPORAL WALL: Perhaps Dr. Costigan could sign the exhibit. THE CORONER: He hasn't signed it? CORPORAL WALL: This page is not being 159l 1592 1393 Dr. E.G. Costigan, EX. by Cpl. Wall. t\ 223 entered, sir. Would you sign that please, doctor. From your examination, doctorm could you give the cause 0 death in the seven instances? I just don't know what you mean there, Corporal. Could I give each one individually? Yes, or I believe one of them I might ??Watts, the injuries received, multiple severe lacerations of the face, etoetera; he in?uries would not appear in my unlearned mind fatal. Could you advise the jury, if possible, as to the cause of death, lumping them together, or individually. I would say from examining them that there were probably two boys killed outright on the initial avalanche, and the remainder died from severe injuries, plus shook, plus exposure. I think it would be impossible to say even with minor lacerations of the scalp that a boy did not have a deep severe brain hemorrhage without a post mortem. THE CORONER: Yes. Obviously Watts had, would be one who would have died rather quickly? I would think so, Dr. Cantor. CORPOEEL And Baylis, R.J., doctor? would you read his injury? Ies. Eenetrating in'urr ovar the left eve approximately .1 l4 3 4? 1596 1397 1398 1399 Dr. EX. Ex. r.e. costigan by Cpl. Wall, by Coroner. -224? two inches long, which appears to be associated with a fractured skull. At the time of your examination, doctor, were these boys They had their clothing on, yes, with the exception of one boy, well, yes they did, one boy had only one shoe on when I examined him, and the remainder of them were clothed in very light shoes, light summer clothing, including T?shirts, cotton shirts and cotton pants. Yes. Thank you, doctor, any further questions, sir? I gather from your evidence, Dr. Costigan, that two of the boys, Watts and R.J. Baylis, died as the result of And I gather further from your evidence that the remaining five boys, although some had quite severe injuries, and although you are not quite certain what other injuries they may have had, let us say to the brain, that those injuries which you found were ones from which persons A I believe that he would be another. clothed? A THE CORONER EKAMINES THE WITNESS: almost immediate injuries? A I would think that, Dr. Cantor. frequently recover? A yes, sir. If they are adequately and quicKly treated? a Yes, sir. Q) So that it would be fair to say that apart from the two 1402 1403 1404 1405 1406 .. es: byr?oroner. W.K. Perren, Ex. by Cpl. Wall. 225 boys who died instantly, the remainder died from shock and exposure consequent to multiple injuries? That's what I felt, sir. Yes. I MR PROWSE: The two boys that you have men? tioned, doctor, are not the two boys who were smothered in the avalanche, there were two others smothered in the avalanche? I am talking about just their injuries here, I don't know how these boys were found. Yes. THE CORONER: Have you gentlemen any questions to ask Dr. Costigan? Any further questions, Corporal? CORPORAL No, sir. THE CORONER: Thank you very muCh, Dr. Costigan. CORPORAL WALL: Mr. Perren. masses: Banff, Alberta, having been duly sworn, examined by Gor?oral Wall, testified as follows: 1-3. Kg:- Mr. Perren, you are an assistant warden and guide for th (D Eanff National Park and residing in Banff, Alberta? Yes. And how long have you been employed by the National Parks here? BF the National Parks since the first of Ma . 5 1407 1408 1409 1410 1411 1412 1413 1414 1415 1416 1417 1418 Ex. by cpi.?w311this year? 0f this year, and I helped them out on the Winter course for two weeks. On the Winter course for two weeks? For two weeks. That was a guide, or a warden school? Yes, a warden school, Winter school. Yes. Who was your previous employer, Mr. Perren? G.P.R. Where? Up at the Chateau Lake Louise. And what were you employed as there? As a guide. As a guide? Yes. And where were you engaged for this employment? I was engaged in 1950 directly in Switzerland. In Switzerland? Yes, in the Spring of 1950. The Canadian Pacific Railway hired you in Switzerland to come over here to Chateau lake Louise? Yes. What were you doing in SwitZerland? I was guiding and skiing the last 20 years. For the last 20 years? Yes. 1419 1420 1421 1422 1423 1424 1425 1426 1427 1426 W.K. Perren, EX. by Gpl. Wall_227_ And were you a registered guide in Switzerland? A registered guide, yes. For mountain climbing? Yes. And what is your home town in Switzerland? Zermatt. Zermatt. And is that close to any famous mountain in Switzerland? The Matterhorn. The Matterhorn? Yes. Have you climbed the Matterhorn? Yes, about 135 times at least. About 135 times? At least, yes. Employed as a guide? As a guide, yes. Mr, Perren, we have heard previous evidence to indicate that you accompanied a party to Mount Temple in the evening of July 11th of this year? Yes. and that you in company with the assistant Chief Warden, Mr. Pittaway, were at a point where he with his party skirted the side of the snow field, and you in company with two men went directly up the centre of the snow field? Yes. 1429 1430 1432 1453 1454 1435 H.1L. To. JLX . 13;. A. A Q. I el-l'en, by Cpl. wall. 228 Did you meet anyone as you were climbing up this snow field? Up the snow field when I left Pittaway? Yes? I went up where the accident happened and I meet Dr. Sutton, and Schauertr, an assistant Warden. Did you meet any of the injured boys therethe injured boys there with them? Yes, there were two injured boys. I asked Schauerte and he said there are two injured and three dead. Yes, he could account for the two injured and three dead? And the three dead. Yes. Didn't that seem surprising to you? That was very surprising for me. Why? Because we met lower down Dickerson. Yes? And he said there are eight up there, two are missing and the others are walking around. I see. Did you see any of the injured party on the rocks there? The injured? 'Ees Yes, I see two of the injured. Do you know them by name now? ?ow I know them by name, that was Clattenburg and Willie Wise, or Wise, just Dickerson also said that there is 1440 1441 1442 A El) Perren, . by Cpl. wall -229- one with the hip in the snow, and alive, and they pulledl him out. Yes. And did you take any action regarding the boy who was buried in the snow up to his hips? Yes. Not immediately, I asked Sohauerte, who was there with the doctor, if that was all he could find, and if he did call for the others how high he went to look for the others, if he had seen the one half buried in the snow. He said, "No, I checked all, and called them, and no answer or nothing.", so the first action I took was bring the injured in the stretcher as quick as possible down. Yes. Is that the point where the previous witness, Mr. Pittawai, stated that you hollered to him to bring up a stretcher? Yes. They had four or five stretchers on the way, you know, and to speed up that I hollered down two stretchers quickly, you know, to speed them up. Yes. And then did you leave this party from where you were standing? Yes. I went, took, I went and took Clattenburg, I helped the staff from Lake Louise, his name is Eruse Lee, took him on his shoulder and carried him about 100 feet down on th (D ledge to be passed on the stretcher, the stretcher is not to come up that high. Yes? .snd left him pn the ledge and went aoout 100 feet down to 1443 1444 1445 I446 1447 1448 1449 g) g: 1? rerren .by Cpl. Wall. help carry that other stretchers up. Then what did you do? Then the stretchers arrived and I told them in each stretcher to put one in, and I took another boy and went quick out buried half in the snow, which they couldn't locate. I went about 500 feet with the flashlight, it was about midnightm maybe half?past twelve, up the snow field, and I could see, about a straight line from the injured man up, and we found a rucksack, and we crossed a little to the left and came down, and we found that man half in the snow buried, but he was dead. I am showing you Exhibit number 4, Mr. Perren? Yes. Which Mr. Pittaway indicated the funnel with an 0. Now could you show the jury where this boy was half buried.~ in the snow? Yes. I will give you a pen. This is more bare now, just Would you mark it with two X's please. We have one on this exhibit now, and another X. Fine. That is the mark he just put on the exhibit. Did you learn the name of this boy later? Later, yes, they said it was What was his name? Was Watt. And at this time you say he was dead? 1450 1451 1452 1453 1454 1455 1456 1457 W.K. Perren, Ex. JD my 3D by Cpl. Wall. Yes, he was dead, the water was pouring on him and he was dead. The water was pouring on him? Pouring on him, you know, he was frozen. Where did this water come from? It was a rock ledge, and they were, just underneath the rock ledge, and it came over the ledge down on him. Yes. Did you make any effort to release him? Well, he was dead. No, not that instant because I went down to give a hand with the injured. Yes, and.did you find any other bodies below this body of Watt? About two hours afterwards, around three o'clock when we went back up. About three o'clock the following morning? In the morning. That would be July 12th? Yes, just at daybreak when I went up to bring him out I found another two attached to the rope to him. When you went up to pull him out what did you do, Mr. Perran. We had a shovel. You had a shovel? Yes, a shovel, and shovelled a few shovelfuls out, not much, and tried to pull him up and he wouldn't come, we pulled his leg a little up and, the rope was twisted around his leg, ha had crampons on, and connected down by Cpl. Wall -232. To the other boys. Directly we pulled him a little out we could see the shoes from the other body upright up, you know. 1456 From he other body? :1 Yes . 1459 Attached to the same rope? A Attached to the same rope. 1460 Yes, and how many bodies did you find there? A There was just two underneath. 1461 Two underneath what? A Three altogether. 1462 a Two underneath Watts? A Yes. 1463 1 And how much snow would be over these two bodies, the last two bodies, Mr. Perren? A The last two bodies were about two feet of snow. 1464 About two feet of snow on top of them? A On tOp of them. 1465 And were both boys attached to Watts by the rope? A They were both attached to Watts by the rope. 1466 This would be the two missing boys that we have heard about? A They were the two missing boys, yes. 1467 Can you identify them by name? A I couldn't for sure. One was tall and one was a small one. 1466 1469 1470 1471 1472 1473 1474 1475 1476 .111 ?63 A 1: ti I Perren, by Cpl. Wall. -233- Yes. On Exhibit number 1, which is the drawing made by Dr. Button U) Ye he has shown the avalanche, and the bodies on this Exhibit, where he located them. Yes. And at the t0p he has Watts, Marble and Chapin? Yes. A little below the body of Wise, below that again Seddon and R.T. Baylis? Yes. Does that refresh your memory? Yes. Wise, Willie Wise was just below these three, Wise was one of the injured. Wise was below Watts, is that correct? Wise was one of the injured. Yes? Yes, it must have been quite below Wise, then it was down on the edge of the avalanche. I don?t wish to go over the evidence again which we have heard, Mr. Perren, but the rope which you found around Watts leading down into the snow, and the other two bodies I am showing you Exhibit number 12, is it, sir? THE CORONER: The rope is 10, I believe. Yes. CORPOELL WAL-: Ex1ibit number 10. Do you recognize this rope? I recognize very well this lighter type, this one. 1477 1478 1479 1481 1482 1485 14s4 1485 uJ-Ln Ull, Ex. by Cpl. hall. 1 .23; A A JD - 234 Was that the rope which was around Watts? Yes. Leading down into the snow? Yes, we cut it with the shovel and the hammer. Yes? To free them from the rope. I think, Mr. Perren, you have qualified yourself to answer these questions. Would you recommend the use of hose ropes as body ropes while climbing mountains? Not for climbing mountains. I would take a thick size, about seven-sixteenths, eleven millimeters. An eleven millimeter rcpe? Yes. That is almost just about equal to seven-sixteenths, or little thicker. 93 Yes. Half inch. And we have heard evidence previously to the effect that these eleven boys were roped together in one line some seven or eleven feet apart. Is that to be recommended? No, that is very wrong if the danger is from above coming down to sweep them off, you Know. Yes. Have you climbed this mountain before? Yes, I have climbed Temple quite often, yes. Do you consider this a dangerous mountain? It is a dangerous mountain for people who don't know anything about Climbing, but if they have a little eXper- ience, and not too early in the season it is not dangerous at all. . . err en Ex. by Cpl. Wall. Ex. hy Coroner. f? 1486 5 Why not too early in the season, hr. Perren? ike 1aSt Spring it was a late Spring, and lots of snow t?l a stayed in the mountains down to the 9000 foot level, and if you were climbing after a clear night and early in the morning it's okay, but if it's a little later it is extremely dangerous with snowslides. 1487 When you cut the rcpes from around the body of Watts and the other two boys did you notice what knots had been used? A Yes, the other two boys had slipknots around their waist. 1488 Around their waist? A Around their waist. 1489 Is that to be recommended, Mr. Perren? A No, certainly not. It has to be a knot that doesn't tighten or either loosen, you know, stays fit in one place. 1490 Those are all the questions I have, sir. THE CORONEK: Have you gentlemen any questions? Mr. Prowse? THE CORONER ZELIIFEE TEE EITNESS: 1491 Mr. Perren, I have one or two questions not directly related to the evidence. I think I heard you say earlier in your evidence when Corporal Wall was qualifying you that you gave some courses to the assistant wardens this year? ta Yes. 1492 And were those courses in the nature of mountain climbing and mountain safety? .- Perren, Ex, by Coroner. 236 A Certainly, it was mountain safety and rescue. 1493 And rescue wort? A Yes. 1494 I understand that Mr. Woodwarth, tLe Warden at Lake Louise has two assistant Wardens one of whose name is -- A Schauerte. 1495 Schauerte, and the other is Gelsdorf. A Gelsdorf. 1496 1 Were those people members of your class? A Schauerte was a member of the class. 1497 Schauerte was a member of the class. Was that his first course, do you know? A Yes. Well, in the Summer, yes, that I know because I have given only one, but he was a so there in the Winter course. 1498 You thins he had other courses as well. Do you know any? thing; about Mr. Gelsdorf's training? A No, I wouldn't know. 1499 But Mr. Schauerte you know had some instruction. A Certainly. A 1590 2 You have been in this area for quite some time I gather? a Five years I climbed here and Lake Louise. 1501 53 Five years at Lake Louise, and ?uring that time I imagine you have climbed Mount Temple very frequently? A Quite often. Not very very often, it is a little dull for a guide to climb up there because it is quite easy, you know, and you go up with one party up, and you would 1.1. Perren, by Coroner, go on some more difficult climb where you are more occupied. 1502 Q. It's rather an.uninteresting climb as far as you are con? As far as a gui?e is concerned it is an uninteresting climb. 1503 You have taken parties up Temple I suppose? 1504 Do you recall the incident of the Mexican climbers last year? A Yes. 1505 They went up Temple also, did they not? A I wouldn't know for sure. During that time that that ac- cident happened I was out at the Alpine Club at the Ice River Camp. 1506 So you wouldn't know? a No. 1507 Have there been any other accidents in this area, fatal accidents in this area within your experience? A The five years I was here there was nothing else. Last year was Bundle. 1508 Yes? use There was something, but in the mountains I don't think so. 1509 Apart from those you can?t recall any? a. I can't recall any. 1510 0 That is in your own experience. Are there any other questions, gentlemen? tiLL: I have one if I may, sir. THE CORONER: Very well, Corporal. L31 1512 1513 1515 1516 1517 1518 1520 H.E Ex. Perren, by Corporal Wall. Do you hnow Edward and Ernest Fuez? les, 1 know them very well. I joined them, you know, dward Fuea was retiring, and Rudolph, and that's why they asked for two more guiles, they retired in 1950. hhat was their position? They were guiding there. At? At the Chateau Lake Louise since 1900. And they are quite elderly now? Yes. Are they actively engaged in guiding now? Right now Ernest Fuez is still guiding private parties, he is not with the 0.P.R. ind he is available as a guide? He is available as a guide in Golden where he lives, and he is right now in O'Hara, he is climbing himself. In Lake O'Hara, that is the Lake Louise district? Yes. He is available? He is available for private parties. At this time? Yes. Thank you. CORONER: Are there any other questions, gentlemen? Mr. Prowse? Thank you very much, Mr. Perren. Anything to say please? (3 ?iLl: Ees. I wouli like to refer to the National Parks not I have just misplaced it now, sir, but I will have it in a moment. Part 5, sir, of the general regulations, Section 25; th? is in the new part of the National Parhs Regulations and it i P.C. 1954, dated the 8th day of December, 1954, P.C. 1954?1918, sir. I understand it has been recently brought into the Act, and it states ?Any person whether accompanied by a guide or otherwise who proposes to make a trip which involves camping out overnight, or climbing a mountain shall before departure register with the Superintendent, or at such place as may be provided by the Superintendent the names and addresses of the members of the party, the date of their departure, the route to be travelled, the proposed duration of their stay in such park, a list of firearms carried by the party and such other information as may be required by the Superintendent and on return register with the Superintendent, or at such place as may be provided by the Superintendent.? THE CORONER: That regulation is dated when? CORPORLL waLL: The 8th day of December, 1954, sir. THE CORONER: 1954, and does it provide for any form to be filled in? CORPOELL WALL: Not in the regulations, sir. .. 24D THE CORONER: It seems to me tde amount of information they require certainly won't so on this little form. However, that's aside, they can always attach some? thing to it, I suppos would have prohibited this accilent from haopening, but only that if the local Wardens had been aware then resuce Operations could have been put into operation more quickly, and they would not have had to send an advance party to ascertain what, whether a full?scale rescue party should be sent in, sir. THE CORONER: Yes. I think they did very wehl, as a matter of fact, with the lack of information. Are there any other witnesses to be called? WALL: That is all, Sir. Those are all the witnesses that we propose to call, gentlemen. If there are any other persons in the Court who haVe any evidence they wish to give, if they would come forward at this time I will swear them, and listen to their evidence. If there are no other witnesses that is all the evidence we have to present to you, gentlemen, and all the evidence which we wish you to consider. It has been shown that the seven boys first named, and a list of whose names is appended to the Inquisition form which I will give you, died sometime between about four e'clock on the evening - 22.11 of July llth, 1955, and the early morning or July 12th, 55. although the evidence was that two of tLe boys died outright from the injuries they received, I think it would be simpler from the point of view of completing the Inquisition to indicate that the causes of death in all cases were multiple injuries, shock and exposure. The place of this catastrophe was Mount Temple in the region of Moraine Lake in Banff National Park. This ten will give you the time, the place and the causes of death of the seven boys. Essentially that is all the informa? tion which you are required to place in your inquest. The Crown considers that you have staisfied your duty by findong the time, place and cause of death. I think, however, that in this particular instance your duty goes beyond the mere finding of fact. You have heard the evidence of this tragedy from the persons who were in charge of a group called Wilderness Camp, who took an a group of 20 CORPOEAL WALL: 22, sir. TEE CORONER: of 22 boys into an area with which they were unfamiliar. You have heard evidence of the nature of the climb, and of the previous climbing experience of the leaders of the group, and of the climbing ability of the boys. You have also heard evidence today with regard to the nature of the equipment, the type of training, and such other general considerations as govern 242 the actions of trained mountain climbers; and tLis ev~ idence was presented to you so that you could compare it wit 11 the procedure that is taLen as adeouate under ciI cu umsta noes such as th's. There are several other matters which I would lihe you to consider. Frankly i am myself not particularly satisfied that a ce*t .1. of registration constitutes a pacrmit to climb. Nor am satisfied that the 1M or .tnetion contained in this cer? tificate, and the manner in which the information is obtained is satisfactory for the purpose for wlic 1- it is intended. You have heard assistant Chief Warden Pittaway agree that perhaps some modification of this procedure would be more satisfactory, and he has agreed with a suggestion I made that perhaps the regulations set out in some form, let's say on the back of such a permit, might be of 3reater assistance to them in tLe mana3e ement of future expeditions into the mountains, and other hikes, and so on, in the Park. These cons1de-ut ons, I think, you should also think about with a View to mahin3 recommendations. It's always the case that t11e barn is closed after the horse has escaped, and human as you do, I am sure you will {now that no amount of permits, and no number of certificates and no extent of rules and re e3u uletions are going to alter human behav vior very much, so lon3 as there is no way of enforcing the re3ulations, resulat ions will be broken. Ignorance of regulation, of course, doesn't make a person free of followin3 the order in a re3u ation. Nevertheless, - 24 1x3} there uill be a lot of people who will still climb mountains without regard to safety no matter how many regulations we have about do think though that' an inquest of this type can serve a useful purpose to a greater extent if you consider these suggestions, and embody them in you Inquisition, because, after all, the opinion of six men tried and true given proper publicity will go a lot further than a sign at the foot of a trail saying ?Dangerous mountain trail, do not enter without proper permit or guide?. The publicity you can give it as a result of your deliberation, think, will serve a much more salutary purpose than any written regulation. I think that also you can help the Park authnrities with suggestions as to the modification of this certificate of registration. I do not want to review the evidence for you. Corporal Wall has done, I believe, an excellent job in bringing out the evidence very clearly and very pointedly and without bias. The witnesses you have heard have all been clear in their evidence, and have been concise and to the point. You have heard them, I am quite sure, as well as I have, and you should have no difficulty in deliberating on the evidence and in reaching your conclusions. I will leave you then with a form of In? quisition with the details as to the time, cause and place so that you can complete the form in the usual manner after you have deliberated on it. I thinh we can leave the jury here, Corporal? HALL THE CORONEH: air. (Jury retires) I :3 (.1 (2outside into the Order. Stand up please. I declare this Inquest re?open?d in the name of the Queen. Do you wish the Jusry called, sir? THE CORONER: COEPQRHIWALL: names as called. MR. PARIS: CORPNEJIWALL: MR. WATCHER: CORPORAL WALL: MR. MACDONALD: CORPORAL WALL: MR. FULLBROOK: WELL: MR. REID: WALL: MR. DIGNALL: CORPORRL WELL: THE ORONEPL: Yes, please. Jurymen, would you answer your Cyril Paris? Here. John Wetter. Here. Alexander Macdonald. Here. Charles Fullbrook. Here. George Reid. Here. John.Dignall. Here. All present, sir. Gentlemen, you have considered the evidence as you have heard it, and you have reached a 245 and written your verdict. Is that MT. Correct. CORONER: And this verdict which I have here is the one you wrote? .v _hE FO?anah: Yes. THE CORGNEE: Gentlemen, I will read the ver- dict to you as written by your Foreman, Er. Paris, and that is that the seven boys listed above came to their death in an avalanche between four p.m. July llth.and one a_m. July 12th, 1955. Cause of death multiple injuries, shock and exposure. Place of death Mount Temple in the region of Moraine Late in Banff National Park. We recommend that a copy of the regulations pertaining to Section 23 Aland of Park regulations he attached to the certificate of regis? tration when issued. We find the Park Department free of all blame and very efficient in their rescue work. We find that all leadership and the equipment inadequate for this type of climbing. And you have signed your names to this document. I wonder, gentlemen, if I might ask whether you couldn't specify the wording of leader? ship to?mahe it more specific. As it stands it might include the leadership of the rescue party as well. THE JURE: Oh, no. THE ROHER: Perhaps if you could aid to that, ?We find that all leadershig and equipment of Wille?i ness slatever their name was. THE JURY Yes, I just thought of that now when you read it. CORPORLL Wilderness Camps. THE Wilderness Camps. If you would ad that, Mr. Paris. "We find that all leaders nip anl the equipment and in here, "of Wilderness Camps was inadequate for this type of climbins." That is the final paragraph then reads, "We find that all leadership and the equipment of Wilderness Camps was ina de ate for this tyne of climbing. Are vou all in agreement with HI that verdict as your foreman has written it and as I have THE Yes. sir. CORONIR: Then I will receive and sign it. Will you dischar Nxe the jury, please. THE JHRX: May I just Speak a moment. Instead of the Park Department I think it should have Parks Branch, it is not the Parks Department, actually. THE CERONER: Are you in agreement to making that change, Mr. Paris? THE FOREMAN: Well, George knows more about 247 that part than I do. THE There is no Parks Department any more, it is a branch of THE COHOUER: Of the Department of Natural Resources. THE JURY: Well, that's really what it is, they don't word it that way any more. I am away from there for five years so I couldn't say. THE CORONER: I think perhaps the meaning is clear within the verdict as it stands without the specific THE.JURY: Well, if you think it's all right. THE CORONER: I think it is satisfactory. GORPORAL Will you stand up, Jury. Oyez, oyez, oyez, you good men of this district summoned to appear here this day to inquire for our Sovereign Lady the Queen when where how and by what means J. Townsend Baylis, Richard J. Baylis, David Chapin, MileSsO. Marble, Luther Seddon, William Watts and Willie Wise came to their deaths, and have now delivered your verdict may now take your ease. God save the Queen. THE CORQNER: Thank you very much, gentlemen. I, w. M. Barneyt, Official Court Reporter, do hereby - 248 - certif? that I attended and took faithful shortheno motee ox the Inquest, and thit the several typewritten Sqeete hereto anneved contain a true and faithful extension W3(.240: UflsuiiC?L no tbo, one, DU. L. one .Officiel Court Reoorter a A Province of alberta TO WIT: An Inquisition taken for our Sovereign Lady the Queen at the house of Masonic Hall in the town of Banff on the 12th day of July 1955 (and by adjournment on the 12th day of July 1955), before John Thompson one of the Coroners of our said Lady the Queen for the Province of Alberta, on view of the bodies of see attached list, then and there lying dead, and undersigned Gyril PARIS, John WETTERS, Alex Charles FULLEROOK, George REID, John And by adjournment on the 15th day of July 1955 good and lawful men, being duly sworn, and charged to inquire for our said Lady the Queen, when, where, how and by what means the said seven persons came to their death came to their death, do upon their oath say: That the seven boys listed above came to their deaths in an avalanche between 4 P.M. July 11th and A.M. July 12th, 1955. Cause of death multiple injuries, shock and exposure. Place, Mount Temple in the region of Moraine Late, Banff Entional Park. We recommend that a copy of the regulations pertaining to Section 23 A of Park regulations be attached to certificate of registration when issued. 2 I: We find the Park Department free of all blame and very efficient in their rescue work. 5116 tile 9 type of climbing. (W hand and seal and the Jury have hereto set their hands this euioment of Wilderness Camus insdeouete for 1 We find that all leadership 1? IN WITHESS WHLREOF, the Coroner has hereunto set his 11th day of August 195 M1 Cantor? Luther SEDDOE 5. ?Cyril Paris? Foreman "John Wetter" MacDonald" Fullbrook" us see. Reid" ?John Dignell" DECEASED PERSON IDENTIFIED ON ATTACHED FORE. J. TOWNSEND Richard J, BAXLIB Pa. Mo. 7501 Huron Philadelphia Pa. USA l5 Yrs. 7301 Huron Philadelphia Pa. USA 15 yrs. David CHAPIN Round Lake Rd. Stamford Conn. USA 15 yrs. Miles 0. Smith Road, RD 1 Collegeville USA 12 yrs. - 5341 Waterman Ave. St. Louis 13 yrs. 1-21.: Hi1; ff. '1 I. Eroad 5.14 .0 r: (.r-Je it .- douderto .- I 7 . 13' .1 .J TITS . Exhibit number 2, - 252 - CERTIFICATE OF REGISTRATION No. 1543 Park Banff National Park Date July 9th, 1955 Members Of Party 24 members Outfitted by Head Guide 0. D. Dickerson 126 W. Mt. Airy, Philadelphia, Pa. Packer Camp Helper Equipment ropes, pitons Fire Arms Route and Destination Mt. Bundle Returned to July 9/55 Noon. Signature of Guide Dickerson" Thompson" Superintendent. (over) 4. The head guide shall be resonsible for the good behaviour of his assistants and camp helpers and for the observance of these Regulations by them and by the members of his party with which he is employed; but such responsibility on the part of the head guide shall not free any member of the party from any personal res? ponsibility or liability for any breach of these Regulations. Exhibit No. 2. Exhibit No. 9 -253- D0 XOUR Best to save the forest; it is the chief charm of a national perk. A cam; fire. lighted match, cigar, cigar- ette or the live ashes from a pipe may destroy many square miles of trees, shrubs, flowers, ferns emd other beautiful things. Exhibit No. 9 Department of Resources and Development Nptionel Parks Branch. CERTIFICATE OF REGISTRATION No. 01655 Canada Date 195 At Park Members of Party Outfitted by Head Guide Packer Camp Helper Equipment Fire Arms Route and Destination Returned to Signature 0g Guide Superintendent