22 THE ICE CREAM TRADE JOURNAL ORIGIN AND DEVELOPMENT OF THE ICE CREAM INDUSTRY Paper Read by Frank M. Buzzell at the Annual Meeting of the Michigan Association of Ice Cream Manufacturers it, is a is is a is It is is various fruit juices or other flavorings, was made into a sort of water ice. Water ices and such re freshments are still the rule in the Orient, while ice cream, as we know rare. There no reliable record of the first water ices. lacking altogether Dates and places are either in the vague allusions made to them or are so indefi nite as to be of no value. probable that they were brought to France from Italy by Catherine de Medici, who, preferring cookery to which she brought her staff of cqpks with was accustomed, her. The date given as about 1550. Water ices are said to have been made by Contreaux, an Italian who established famous cafe in Paris. Lemonade was invented about 1630; to whom the credit be not known. From water ices to mixtures longs containing milk or cream and eggs, was apparently but history logical progression, vague on the question of who first made ice cream. it is a a a it a it, a is I. is it is is a a a a is It recorded certain that in Rome, Quintus Maximus Gurges, nicknamed "The Glutton," wellknown writer of those times on subjects pertaining to the table, wrote recipe in one of his books for dish that somewhat ice cream. resembled The name ice cream one of modern origin, the origi nal terms being butter ice, or cream ice, the latter The earlier forms, being to-day favored in England. after the ices containing milk or cream, which were really the first ice creams known, were called butter ice probably because of their rich butter-like consist ency, being made from rich cream and spaddled. Cream ice said to have been known in Paris in 1774. Recipes for water ices and milk ices, claimed, were brought from Asia by Marco Polo, who visited Japan in the fifteenth century. Cream ice mentioned in an account of a banquet given by Charles of England. The dish was made by French cook named De Mireo, and related that the king was so well pleased with the "frozen milk," as he called that he pensioned the cook with twenty pounds year on condition that he would not divulge the secret of making the dessert, nor make for anyone but him. Another account says that the first ice cream was set before the Due de Chartres on hot day in August, 1774, by his chef, who had depicted the duke's coat-of-arms Again we find in an account of an on the cream. entertainment given by Louis XIV. of France, that "toward the end of the feast, his chef caused to be placed before each guest, in silver gilt cup, what was apparently freshly laid egg, colored like those of Easter, but, before the company had time to recover from their surprise at such novelty at des a sert, they discovered delicious sweetmeat, that the cold, and compact supposed eggs were as marble." a a is also claimed that certain Carlo Gatti first introduced cream ices into England. A French cook, Clermont, residing in London, gave instructions for making sweet ices in book he pub It From motives of comfort and health, the instinct of man in all ages and climates has been to main tain his physical (if not his mental) being at a Thus we as nearly normal as possible. temperature find the natives of Iceland and other very cold cli fats, tal mates living upon heat-producing foods, low' candles, and such delicacies, while the South Sea Islander lunches on a little fruit or cereal, or other food producing a minimum of bodily heat. Hot This rule applies also to liquid refreshment. weather creates a demand for cooling drinks, and vice versa. And we, in our day, when we sit in the coolest spot to be found on some sweltering August night, and sip our favorite cold drink, are actuated our an by the same motive which has influenced cestors from the more recent past back to the days of Job and Solomon the Wise. For the Bible tells us indirectly that the people of Palestine knew and the refreshing quality of snow in time appreciated The Jews, the ancient Greeks and Ro of harvest. to the use of snow for mans were all accustomed cooling wines and other beverages, and it is to-day and parts of Spain used in this way in certain Turkey. Only those southern localities which were favored with the proximity of snow-capped mountains could enjoy the luxury of a snow-cooled beverage or des Where snow was not obtainable, liquids were, sert. and still are, cooled in porous jars and urns ex posed to cool breezes, or, in lack of a breeze, swung The principle is about to create a current of air. The most common method of pre a familiar one. serving snow was to saturate it with water, having packed it closely into some receptacle, of considerable size probably, and allowing it to freeze into a kind of porous ice, from which blocks could be cut as required for use. To chill a dessert or a liquid, the dish containing it was imbedded in a larger vessel partly filled with snow and particles of ice, and the It was then packed with it. open space closely allowed to stand«until it had become as cold as pos sible or as desired. Alexander the Great is said to have been very fond of iced beverages, and one of our modern the Macedoine, it is said, was named for varieties, Snow and ice were used the great Macedonian. at table in the court of Henry III. of France in the The Italians, it is claimed, hot summer months. in the original method made the first improvement of cooling, which improvement was to dissolve salt petre in water and pour a little of the solution in with the snow and ice surrounding the dish to be Later it was found that better results were cooled. attained by dropping the saltpetre directly into the snow and ice, and at the same time revolving the By vessel containing the substance to be chilled. this means the mixture in the vessel could be brought to a fairly solid state. Wines were commonly iced in this way, then water, sweetened and flavored with THE ICE CREAM TRADE cream, a it end could not be readily controlled, counteracted the manufacturing cost, and the result was that the project was abandoned and not repeated. In 1856 the Baltimore business was left with part ner and factory was opened in Washington, D. C. In 1862 Boston was added to the chain of plants. Here large exporting firm, who had made con siderable money shipping ice to London, India and Brazil, saw new outlet for ice in the ice cream busi They attempted to induce Mr. Fussell to go to ness. Brazil and start factory there, and offered to back him with the necessary he wanted capital but he was not interested. Failing to get him to send one of his men over, they arranged for one of their own men to learn the art of making ice cream, and paid modest $500 for the formula. How the South American venture fared not re corded. In 1864 the •New York house of Fussell was started and continued with the usual success. Here the prevailing price among confectioners was Mr. Brazleton, of Iowa, friend $1.25 per quart. of Mr. Fussell, losing his fortune in the panic of 1857, came to Washington and learned the ice cream He went back west and opened business. fac tory in St. Louis, later going to Cincinnati and a lesser a it, at Baltimore. generations to the present day. In if a is a a a American enterprise was not long in taking up new industry, and the growth of the business However, the real development, had commenced. the day of large figures in the business, had its be ginning not over fifteen years ago. The brine or refrigerating system of freezing ice cream has been efficiently applied only within the past five years, and And yet we are "going has now only fairly begun. some" at the present, as witness this extract from paper read before the International Congress of Refrigerating Industries at Paris by S. S. Vander He states that the yearly output Vaart, of Chicago. of ice cream plants already equipped with refriger ating machinery estimated at fifty million gallons, valued at forty million dollars (saying nothing of the millions of gallons turned out yearly by the still in general use ice and salt method, which all over the country). Mr. Cutler, commenting edi torially on this statement in The Ice Cream Trade the Journal, says that the estimate given above is to be the father of the business. Chicago. anything, too low. certainly not too high, and He further states that probably one-half of the plants with refrigerating machinery have been equipped so equipped within the last two years, and that in within the next six stallations to be completed months will exceed in number and in aggregate ton twelve months. nage the record for any previous The first real progress toward artificial refrigera German in tion said to have been made by 1867, and was then used only in breweries, and a ice cream three the at the selling if wealthy. in the milk business through the is died The year 1851 found His supply of milk came into Baltimore on the Northern Cen tral Railway from York county, Pa. A few of his customers wanted cream, and finding that satisfac tory results were not obtained by ordering cream intermittently to supply an unsteady demand, he Here for a regular shipment. made arrangements itself, for at times he again a difficulty presented found his stock of cream accumulating, which must be disposed of in the best way possible. To utilize the idea of making ice this surplus he conceived cream, the retail price of which at this time by the few confectioners who sold it was sixty cents per quart The idea proved an inspiration, for the ice soon overshadowed the milk busi cream business Mr. Fussell ness, which was in time disposed of. believed in the value of printers' ink and advertised his new business, and then, as now, intelligent ad vertising paid. Devoting his entire attention to the ice cream business, he prospered in and built up large business, the success of which has continued him and that the stock is, and Jacob Fussell is admitted wholesale country, A cream the best goods the was divided between is ice establishments, in cheaper a from the foregoing bits of narrative was not apparently discovered, but rather was the result of a slow process of evolution or development, which was taking place in different History states localities at about the same time. that ice cream was first sold in New York by a Mr. Hall, at 75 Chatham street, now Park Row. Ice cream is mentioned in an account of a ball given by a Mrs. Johnson December 12, 1789, and was introduced to the city of Washington by Mrs. Alex ander Hamilton at a dinner at which President She had become familiar with Jackson was present. the dish in New York. The first advertisement of in a New York paper, the appeared ice^ cream "Post Boy," dated June 8, 1786, and reads as fol lows : "Ladies and gentlemen may be supplied with ice cream every day at the City Tavern by their Joseph Crowe." A negro, one servant, humble Jackson, who had worked at the White House in Washington after Mrs. Hamilton introduced ice cream to President Jackson, learned the recipe and He sold his cream readily started a confectionery. at one dollar per quart. Others imitated him, but Jackson held his custom and prospered by making We deduce that two produced his own attention a creams. actually fact that it Germans moulded but was is ice scheme for making his of supply of his raw mate rial, rather than at the distributing point, but did not prove successful, for while the ice cream at the source it, the whether Germany or England first it is generally conceded that in making fancy led the English is a question 1852 and 1853 he tried out ice cream a It made 23 a in 1776. English cook books one hundred and fifty years old give recipes for cream ices in which cream and milk, sugar, eggs, arrowroot or flour and flavoring were used. Recipes have always varied according to the whim or desire of the maker, and there is no similarity in the amounts of cream or milk to be used, and consequently in the butterfat contents. It has remained for the modern food control official to say how much fat ice cream must contain to be properly so called. lished JOURNAL is, a and hardens so quickly that the cream not softened Another more elaborate form said to be served in certain New York cafes to-day. The fried ice cream was introduced at the World's Fair in Chicago in 1893. It occurred to me that these freak varieties may have suggested the idea in the least. of the ice cream sandwich and ice cream Whatever the origin, we will have to admit gallon of ice cream the cone has sold many made many dollar for those engaged in the cone. that and busi ness. seems hardly necessary for me to speak further of the present extent of our great industry, the ice cream business. There are men here who can tell men who are doing their great deal about me share in making current ice cream history. And believe that the future historian of this business, who shall recount the progress of its development during the years from 1900 to 1910, cannot but re mark upon that decade as being epoch making in the annals of the trade. I discovered'. is thus is doubt a no it, was Ice cream is not to-day, as in past years, a luxury. Its lowered cost brings it within reach of the masses ; no longer is it something which may be enjoyed only by the rich. It is fairly entitled to a place in the class of necessities. Ice cream is in high favor in England, where the climate favors its use the year through. And it is used by nearly all steamship lines, especially those making long trips in warm climates. The passengers, who do not relish the indifferent quality of most foreign made goods, de mand American ice cream. Every express steamer of the North German Lloyd Line leaves New York with not only a supply to care for the wants of its own passengers, but enough to furnish the Japanese, Chinese and Australian service of the company. For the far eastern service the cream is carried in re frigerated compartments to Bremerhaven and there transferred to ships sailing for ports in India, China, Japan and Australia. It does not seem proper to close this paper with out some allusion to our friend of the lawn party, ice cream wagon, and county fair —the ice cream I have heard that it was introduced in this country at the St. Louis exposition. I have found directions for preparing a freshment called "fried ice cream," sometimes known as "Alaska pie" or "Alaska fritters." The method briefly, to dip cube of hard ice cream into thin fritter batter and then to plunge into very hot lard or olive oil. The pastry forms good protector from the heat cone. it cream next. a came a Ice making by artificial The use of refrigerating proc esses for making ice cream was probably begun in a way by chance, for large ice manufacturing estab lishments put on an ice cream department to utilize the broken or waste ice, and the possibility of apply ing mechanical refrigeration to the making of ice means JOURNAL a to a very limited extent. TRADE a CREAM It THE ICE 24 ICE CREAM CAN AND TUB BILL IN NEBRASKA Provide for the Marking of Any Receptacle for Ice Cream or Milk or Cream and to Make Wrongful Use of Such Receptacle Unlawful a a a any part thereof. it The bill provides that shall be unlawful for any company or corporation to adopt or use any person, or mark which has already been designated, or obtained under the provisions of the act that shall be unlawful for any person other than the rightful owner thereof to use any cask, keg, barrel or other receptacle, can, bottle, marked or branded as provided in the act, for any other purpose or for the transportation or handling of any other article or product than that designated or provided for by such branding, and that shall be unlawful for any person other than the rightful owner thereof to deface or remove any such brand, mark or stamp put upon any such can, bottle, cask, keg, barrel or other receptacle as provided in the brand appropriated it cans, tubs, containers, act. The Tri-State Ice Cream Co., incorporated with of $20,000, successor to Frank Howe, wholesale confectioner and dealer in ice cream supplies. enlarging the old business, the Besides new concern will engage in the manufacture of ice cream and dairy products and bottled beverages of the "soft" variety. A fund of $10,000 said to have been set aside for improvements and machin The incorporators of the new company are: ery. Frank Howe, John L. Howe, W. N. Bagley, Fred Vinland. Wm. Rosenbloom and R. L. McKenty. capital stock is cream a ice is the use of ice cream milk cans, bottles, etc., by any one except the lawful owners thereof has been introduced in the Nebraska Legis lature and will probably become law. The bill provides that any person, firm or corpora tion engaged in the transportation or manufacture of any dairy product, or ice cream, or in bottling milk and cream for sale and use may adopt any mark of ownership to be stamped or marked on the can, bottle, cask, keg, barrel or other receptacle used in the handling and transportation of any of mentioned, the products and may file in the office of the Secretary of State of the name description or mark so used, and the use to be made of any such can, bottle, cask, keg, barrel or other receptacle, and cause the same to be published for two success ive weeks in weekly newspaper published and in general circulation in the State of Nebraska. The brand or mark so selected and adopted may name, design, mark or marks, or some consist of particular color of paint or enamel used upon the can, bottle, cask, keg, barrel or other receptacle, or other it to prevent and ; A bill moulds a To