The Central Access Scheme for the City of Kilkenny An Bord Pleanála Oral Hearing, December 2008 Statement of Evidence on behalf of An Taisce and The Royal Society of Antiquaries of Ireland by John Bradley, MA, FSA My name is John Bradley. I am an archaeologist and historian and I have spent more than thirty years studying the medieval city of Kilkenny. My first paper on the subject, dealing with the town wall of Kilkenny was published in 1975. Since then I have published research papers in scholarly journals locally, nationally and internationally. Among the better known of these would be the fascicle of the Irish Historic Towns Atlas on Kilkenny (2000), which was published by the Royal Irish Academy as part of the Irish contribution to the series sponsored by the International Commission for the History of Towns, and which now numbers some 350 historic towns across Europe. I have also endeavoured to place my knowledge within the public domain and to that end I have published ‘popular’ books, such as Discover Kilkenny (2000) and Treasures of Kilkenny (2003). In addition to my research on Kilkenny, I have also devoted considerable time to the study of medieval Irish towns generally. This research interest arose from my postgraduate work in the department of Archaeology at University College Dublin in the 1970s. During the 1980s, under a commission from the Office of Public Works, I prepared the Urban Archaeology Survey of towns in twenty-three Irish counties, which endeavoured to identify the archaeologically sensitive zones in towns, and I have published over twenty papers on medieval Irish towns, some of which are general studies such as my contribution on ‘Planned Anglo-Norman towns in Ireland’, published in The comparative history of non-Roman towns in Europe (Oxford, 1985), or my study of the ‘monastic town’ published in Aedificia Nova (Kalamazoo, Michigan, USA, 2008); others are detailed studies of individual towns such as Drogheda (1978, reprinted 1998) and Ardee (1984). I have taught in universities since 1991, including University College Dublin and the National University of Ireland, Galway. At present I am a senior lecturer in the department of History at the National University of Ireland, Maynooth, where I teach a course on the medieval Irish town—the only one on offer in this country. I am here today to raise some general issues about the Central Access Scheme, rather than speak in detail about the archaeology of the route, which has been dealt with by Cóilín Ó Drisceoil and Ian Doyle. My objections to the route are threefold: (1) the lack of understanding of the urban structure of Kilkenny, (2) the demolition of the street pattern of Irishtown and (3) the insertion of an incongruous bridge, which, cumulatively, destroy the integrity of the historic city. In terms of the historic form of the city, I have no doubt at all that the decision arrived at from this hearing will be one of the most significant in eight hundred years because it will either preserve the old city for a new generation or destroy it. From a heritage perspective, the demolition of Dean Street in 1978 was a disaster. It removed an intact medieval street and it demolished houses, some of which were themselves medieval, without any archaeological investigation or detailed recording of the fabric. Such decisions reflect the time, the 1970s, when Inner Relief Roads were regarded as the solution to traffic problems. From the point of view of heritage, it was a time of ignorance (I use the word in its original sense meaning ‘lack of knowledge’) when even such elementary things as the archaeological zone of a town was not identified or understood. The narrow ambience of Dean Street, which I remember with affection (my great-aunts lived there), was replaced by the present mediocre road. To extend this scheme eastwards into Irishtown and Vicar Street, as proposed, is to perpetuate a decision that should not have been made in the first place and compound it by adding, literally, insult to injury. Irishtown is the oldest part of the city, the fons et origo from which Kilkenny developed. I wish to refute utterly the impression given by the statement of Mr Thaddeus Breen that ancient Irishtown was confined to a cathedral precinct. This is not so. Irishtown occupied the whole of the walled area and the River Breagagh has been its boundary since the time of William Marshall (c.1208). Stanihurst, writing in 1577, tells us that Kilkenny was divided into the Hightown (or Englishtown) and the Irishtown, which as he quaintly puts it, was ‘the ancienter’ (i.e., the older settlement of the two). The integral connection of the two was recognised in law by the charter of Elizabeth I (1574), which created the corporation of Kilkenny by uniting and making a body corporate of Irishtown and Kilkenny. The union of the two is repeated in the charter of 1608 and again in the ‘city charter’ of 1609, the governing charter of Kilkenny until 1843, and the basis on which Kilkenny is permitted to refer to itself as a city in the Local Government Act of 2001. I give the extract from the first clause of the 1609 charter, if only to show that the union of Irishtown and Kilkenny is an ancient one, and that Irishtown’s place as an integral part of the historic city is beyond question: Know ye that we [James I] by our special grace, and of our certain knowledge and mere motion, do give and grant for us, our heirs and successors, to the said sovereign, free burgesses, and commonalty, and dwellers or inhabitants of the said borough or town, and to their successors, or by whatsoever other name they are called, nominated or known, and by these presents for us, our heirs and successors, we will, ordain, constitute, and declare that the said town or borough of Kilkenny, and also all and singular the manors, castles, towns, villages, hamlets, lands, tenements, waters, rivulets, meadows, bogs and all other hereditaments whatsoever of, or within the said borough of Kilkenny, as well within that part thereof called in English the Hightown, alias the English town, as within that part called the Irishtown, or within the burgageries, franchises, meares or bounds of them or any of them; and also all and singular, the manors, castles, towns, villages, hamlets, lands, tenements, waters, rivulets and other hereditaments whatsoever within the parish and church of St Canice, and within the several parishes and churches underwritten, the parish and church of the Blessed Virgin Mary, the parish and church of St John the Evangelist, the parish and church of St Patrick’s, Kilkenny, within the said borough of Kilkenny, or within any of them, as well within glebe land and the land of the Cross, as without, withal may be united and incorporated, and withal may be forever one entire and free city, and withal shall be nominated, called and named the City of Kilkenny. The Irishtown was in existence when the first Anglo-Normans (about 200-strong) arrived in 1169 and stayed in its ‘ostels’ (guest-houses), as the Song of Dermot and the earl tells us. I think I was the first to point out, many years ago now, that the curving line of Dean Street and Vicar Street preserves or reflects the line of an ancient ecclesiastical enclosure such as we find still surviving at Armagh, Kells (Co. Meath) and Kildare. This phase of Ireland’s urban development is referred to as ‘the monastic town’, a phase that also occurs in Britain and the Carolingian world, where monasteries developed trade, crafts and exchange. In due course the artisans moved out of the monastery into faubourgs or suburbs, where they could practice their skills more independently. By the twelfth century, it is normal for such settlements to have suburbs outside the boundary of the ecclesiastical enclosure. Irishtown, in origin, is not just some local development it is part of a major process of European urbanisation, the first rebirth of urban life that occurred after the fall of the Roman Empire. The curving street plan should be retained without alteration as one of the handful of such surviving streets in Ireland, preserving as it does a record in the urban landscape of this distinctive type of Irish monastic town. It is perhaps more generally recognised that the urban structure of Hightown (or Englishtown) fits within an international context. Kilkenny received its first charter in 1207, while, for instance, Lubeck was founded in 1180, Salisbury in 1220, Berlin in 1225. The foundation of the Hightown gave Kilkenny two foci in the classic continental manner, the cathedral and the castle, linked by the great long High (and later Parliament) Street. This gave Kilkenny its distinctive linear form, with a vertical axis, flanked by burgage plots. It is a plan used by the Anglo-Normans throughout Ireland and found, for instance, at Ardee, Athy, Carrick-on-Suir, Dingle, Kilmallock and Naas. Kilkenny, however, is Ireland’s most intact large medieval town and the present scheme proposes to obliterate the oldest part of it by cutting a roadway at right angles across a plan that has been in place for eight hundred years. It is important to remember that the plan of Kilkenny did not just emerge from nowhere. Planning and regulation were quite strict in the Middle Ages. The width of the streets, as well as the height and proportions of houses were controlled by the corporation and offenders would have their houses taken down or face substantial penalties for infringements. It was because of such strict regulation and the encouragement to build stone houses that Kilkenny became known as ‘the faire [beautiful] citie’. The inherited plan then, both of Hightown and Irishtown, is one that was carefully planned and we should not be messing it around without knowing what it is that we are doing. The old city is attractive to live in for the simple reason that our medieval predecessors put a great deal of time and attention into making it beautiful. The proposed bridge is completely out of place in the historic city. Since at least 1223 there have been two bridges across the river Nore—Green’s Bridge and John’s Bridge. To place a new bridge between these old ones is wrong. It will be visually intrusive removing the fine view from Michael Street of the spires, churches and towers from St Canice’s Cathedral to the Castle, that is characteristic of Kilkenny. It is a view celebrated in the writings of Francis MacManus and compared by Sean J. White to the approaches to Oxford. Certainly, it is the only urban view in Ireland that would bear such a comparison. If we were in Florence or Venice, the construction of this bridge and its intrusion into the historic core would be unthinkable. And Kilkenny is to Ireland what Florence is to Italy. It is our great medieval city, our testament to the fact Ireland was part and parcel of the general urban civilisation of Europe. Time has not been kind to Ireland’s medieval towns—the seventeenth century was a period of great destruction, such that many people are surprised to discover that there are any medieval towns in Ireland. They are few in number and they are precious because of that. In Italy, as in virtually any other European state, the present problem would be solved by traffic management and not by the insertion of new roads and bridges. My objection to this scheme is the manner in which it destroys the historic core and runs contrary to 1000 years of development that have given Kilkenny its distinctive character. We should be trying to preserve the integrity of the historic city and develop Irishtown sensitively rather than demolishing it. The Central Access Scheme will destroy the street pattern, will add a new road linking Vicar Street with the proposed bridge and change forever the form and layout of Irishtown, which is the historic core of Kilkenny. It will introduce an east-west route where there should not be one and effectively behead St Canice’s Cathedral from the remainder of the historic city. We should be trying to protect the street pattern and maintain the underlying urban framework rather than destroying them. In my opinion the scheme should be rethought and re-routed so as to avoid the historic city.