SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 11, 2018 1R News G1 HOSTILE WATERS A SEA TTLE TIMES SPECIAL REPORT P ART ONE ORCAS IN PERIL Why are Canadian orcas healthy and growing in numbers, while Puget Sound orcas are fighting for survival? Story by LYNDA V. MAPES Seattle Times environment reporter Photographs by STEVE RINGMAN Seattle Times photographer BLACKFISH SOUND, QUEEN CHARLOTTE STRAIT, B.C. B igger and bigger, with a puff and a blow, the orca surfaces, supreme in his kingdom of green. Northern resident orcas like this one live primarily in the cleaner, quieter waters of northern Vancouver Island and Southeast Alaska, where there also are more fish to eat. They are the same animal as the southern residents that frequent Puget Sound, eating the same diet, and even sharing some of the same waters. They have similar family bonds and culture. The difference between them is us. The southern residents are struggling to survive amid waters influenced by more than 6 million people, between Vancouver and Seattle, with pollution, habitat degradation and fishery declines. The plight of the southern residents has become grimly familiar as they slide toward extinction, with three more deaths just last summer. Telling was the sad journey of J35, or Tahlequah, traveling more than 1,000 miles for at least 17 days, clinging to her dead calf, which lived only one half-hour. Yet just to the north, the orca population has more than doubled to 309 whales since scientists started counting them in 1974, and has been growing ever since, at 2.2 percent per year on average. For scientists seeking to better understand the southern residents’ troubles, the northern residents are like a control group, said Sheila Thornton, chief killer-whale biologist for the Department of Fisheries and Oceans Canada. “Their environment has changed so quickly, over just two generations,” Thornton said of the southern residents. “To keep up with these changes is almost an impossible task. How do they survive in the environment we have created for them?” The decline of the whales, a symbol of the Northwest, is also a warning, as climate change and development remake our region. The northern residents live in not just a different place, but another world. Continued on next page > The waters of northeast Vancouver Island are home to a growing population of northern resident orcas. Their habitat is more like Puget Sound used to be: cleaner, quieter and with more abundant chinook salmon runs, the orcas’ primary food. Southern residents are the same type of orca, but are struggling to survive. G2 News SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 11, 2018 1R HOSTILE WATERS O R C A S I N P E R I L UNDERWATER DIGITAL IMAGE COURTESY OF EXPLORE.ORG Northern residents enjoy a sanctuary created just for them in the Robson Bight (Michael Bigg) Ecological Reserve, where during most of the year no boat traffic is allowed. Along the shore, orcas rub on the smooth stones seemingly just for the delight of it. The reserve includes the beach, an important salmon stream and the upland forest that protects it. ABOUT THIS SERIES In the weeks and months ahead, The Seattle Times’ “Hostile Waters” series will continue to explore and expose the plight of the southern resident killer whales, among the most-enduring symbols of our region and most-endangered animals. We’ll examine the role humans have played in their decline, what can be done about it and why it matters. TEXT US You can text with us about this project and get additional coverage from the series. Text ORCA to 206-429-4613 to join the conversation. VIDEOS, RESOURCES Go to st.news/northsouth to watch videos, including orcas rubbing on a beach in British Columbia, leaping in the Salish Sea and getting a dose of medication. LEARN MORE Find a glossary of orca terms and a reading list. > G6 Paul Spong founded OrcaLab in 1970. At this remote whaleresearch station on Hanson Island, B.C., Spong and his wife, Helena Symonds, and a cadre of volunteers document the lives and sounds of the northern resident orcas. < Continued from previous page A remote land to the north Paul Spong stuffs a pair of chainsaw ear muffs on his head to block out the racket as he pilots his boat to collect visitors arriving at OrcaLab, his remote, land-based whale research station on Hanson Island, on the northeast side of Vancouver Island. OrcaLab grows on the shore of the island like a huckleberry bush sprawling from an old-growth stump: organic and nestled into its place. And what a place it is. It’s a vision of the way the lands and waters of Puget Sound used to be. Behind the lab, a 1,000-year-old cedar reigns over woods in which the very light seems green. The ground underfoot is thick and soft with deep duff, and forest cloaks the land to the waterline. Beaches, never armored or walled off from the nourishing sea, are piled with driftwood and wrack. On these remote islands of the Broughton Archipelago, bears turn over rocks, looking for crabs, and ravens gronk in the woods. The jade green, clear, clean water is alive with seabirds, humpbacks and dolphins. Bones picked clean and wedged between beach stones attest to a bounty of fish. OrcaLab has been Spong’s listening post since 1970. What he wants to hear — and has obsessively recorded 24 hours a day, seven days a week during summer and fall all those decades — are the sounds of the northern resident whales that cruise the waters of Blackfish Sound and Johnstone Strait. Leaning on a wooden rail of the deck overlooking the glassy water, Spong speaks softly of the life he and his wife, Helena Symonds, have lived here amid the whales. Behind him, inside his lab, an ever-changing cadre of research volunteers monitors feeds from underwater cameras Spong has placed throughout the area over the years to non-invasively document the lives of passing whales. Hydrophones — underwater microphones — also monitor the water from a listening network Spong has established over about 50 square kilometers in the orcas’ core habitat. Live webcams also bring the wonder of this place to the world. Among the first to understand the complex emotional lives and intelligence of orcas, Spong also was among the pioneers who insisted on a name change to orca from killer whale, to better reflect the nature of these animals that for so long were feared and maligned as random and vicious killers. Orcas are efficient and skilled hunters. But never in the wild has an orca been known to attack a human, even when captors took their young for aquariums. Trained as a brain scientist, it was while working with captive whale Skana at the Vancouver Aquarium in 1967 that Spong discovered he was interacting with a complex mind. It wasn’t long before he spoke out against captivity, earning his em- STEVE RINGMAN / THE SEATTLE STEVE TIMES RINGMAN / THE SEATTLE TIMES Volunteers on their tiny observation platform monitor the northern residents from the most remote outpost of OrcaLab, on Cracroft Point above Johnstone Strait. ployer’s displeasure. After leaving the aquarium, he quickly established Orca­­Lab. By now he has logged thousands of hours of orca sounds and images and remains even more convinced that humans share space with beings that have capacities we are only beginning to discover. “They are so successful,” said Spong, reflecting on Orcinus orca, ruler of the seas and the top predator in every ocean of the world. They live in cooperative cultures and even in peace among different tribes of their own kind. In the North Pacific, northern and southern resident orcas, transient orcas — or Bigg’s killer whales — and a third type called offshores have worked out a sophisticated diplomacy, sharing space over a vast territory. While they will overlap in their hunting and travels, they mostly each keep to their distinct ecological niches. The northern residents generally keep to northern Vancouver Island and Southeast Alaska, while the southern residents ply the transboundary waters of the Salish Sea between the U.S. and Canada and outer coast of Washington, Oregon and even California. The transients travel both places and the offshores typically keep to the outer continental shelf. The three types don’t interbreed, don’t share language, food or culture, and are not known to fight. Specialization in diet might be one reason: The transients eat seals and other marine mammals; the offshores eat sharks, while the northern and southern residents eat fish, mostly chinook salmon. The residents are unique in their family ties, stronger than among humans. Orca families stay together for life, with the offspring never leaving the day-in, day-out company of their family. They share food, hunt and travel together, and sleep along- side one another, moving slowly with the current at the surface of the water. Conscious breathers, unlike us, they must keep half their brain awake to keep breathing as they rest. They are superheroes of the sea, traveling 75 miles a day and more, with bursts of speed up to 30 mph and capable of diving more than 3,000 feet. Yet they are so much more than all business. The northern and southern residents are playful, athletic and extremely tactile, continually touching and interacting in the water, with babies tossed by their parents and rolled over their backs. Their social lives are rich. Males and females can mate year-round. Spong shows underwater footage from cameras at Robson Bight (Michael Bigg) Ecological Reserve, set aside just for the whales. Here on beaches of round, smooth stones, Continued on next page > SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 11, 2018 1R News G3 HOSTILE WATERS O R C A S I N P E R I L Killer whales, the oceans’ top predator Killer whales (Orcinus orca) are the most widely distributed whales in the world and found in every ocean. Three orca ecotypes reside in the waters of the northern Pacific ALASKA THE DORSAL FIN The orcas’ most recognizable fin varies Coast. While their ranges overlap, they are not known to interact, and each ecotype is genetically distinct. They have unique foraging behaviors, dialects, diets and appearances. in size and shape by ecotype and gender. Males tend to have straighter, more upright fins, with male residents’ occasionally having a forward-slant with a wavy back edge. Rounded tip Nicks along edge Juneau Rounded on top Pointed trailing tip Pointed tip MOBILITY Playful and athletic, orcas can leap from the water in a spectacular behavior called breaching. They “spyhop” with their heads above water to take a look around, belly flop, roll and slap their dorsal and pectoral fins. They can travel 75 miles a day and more, with bursts of speed up to 30 mph and are capable of diving deeper than 3,000 feet, about five Space Needles stacked end to end. Ketchikan BRITISH COLUMBIA OBSERVED ECOTYPE RANGES Offshore Faded saddle Resident Transient “Closed” saddle, often extends past midline of dorsal fin Large black intrusion “open” saddle SADDLE PATCH Its shape and pigmentation pattern helps identify individuals. The shape may be inherited and helps differentiate between ecotypes. OFFSHORE Vancouver Size: 22 feet Prey: Sharks Estimated population: about 300 (as of 2014) Behavior: Travel in groups of up to 100 individuals CANADA U.S. Seattle WASHINGTON Portland RESIDENTS Size: 24 feet Prey: Fish (prefer chinook salmon) Behavior: Highly social, lifelong matrilineal extended family groups with vocal traditions/dialects OREGON Southern resident adult female orca Northern residents Cape Mendocino Estimated population: 309 (as of 2017) PATTERNING The distinctive black-and-white coloration varies by ecotype and helps obscure their outline as they hunt, providing camouflage. San Francisco Southern residents CALIFORNIA Estimated population: 74 (as of Oct. 2018) PA Los Angeles IC EA CANADA N Size: 26 feet Prey: Marine mammals (seals and porpoises) Estimated population: about 300 (as of 2013) Behavior: Smaller family groups — offspring 20 often separate from mothers San Diego OC MEXICO 200 0 MILES LIFE HISTORY In this matriarchal society, female killer whales can live upward of 80 years, while males live 50 to 60 years. A female typically breeds from the ages of 15 to 40 and has four to six surviving offspring, giving birth every three to 10 years. The gestation period is up to 18 months. Babies nurse for about a year; almost half die before their first birthday. At birth, calves are 7 to 8 feet long and weigh 300 to 400 pounds. Pt. Eugenia CRITICAL RESIDENT HABITAT Northern resident critical habitat Hanson Island Johnstone Strait Powell River Courtenay Vancouver Vancouver Island Swanson Channel Tofino Southern resident critical habitat PACIFIC OCEAN Critical habitat is designated by agencies in the U.S. and in Canada to protect the core use areas of the northern and southern residents. CANADA U.S. Bellingham Victoria SOUTHERN RESIDENT POPULATION Thom pson +253.3% growth since 1974 Kamloops Kamloops +8.8% growth since 1974 309 total northern residents 300 Kelowna 200 Everett 0 NORTHERN RESIDENT POPULATION 1 Bella Bella Point Conception CIF TRANSIENTS (BIGG’S) 6 ft. Penticton 300 200 160 - A pod 101 - G pod 100 Lake Chelan 1995: 98 orcas 100 48 - R pod 30 MILES Seattle 0 1974 ’80 Wenatchee ’90 2000 ’10 0 1974 ’80 2017 ’90 Sources: NOAA, Fisheries and Oceans Canada, Center for Whale Research, Esri, Natural Earth Aberdeen keep an eye out for any boat — motorized or not — that might intrude they eagerly seek out their pleasures: on the whales’ peace and privacy, The orcas slide through pellucid, and they log whale sightings and aquamarine water, pressing the air in boat activity. Marine wardens on silvery bubbles from their lungs in patrol work to keep boaters the reorder to sink low and scooch over the quired 200-meter distance away stones. They rub their bodies over the from the whales outside the reserve, pebbles, seemingly just for the deand guard the waters within it. light of it. The southern residents have no The sanctuary is visible from a such respite or sanctuary from huremote OrcaLab observation outpost man intrusion and noise. While they on Cracroft Point, with underwater are the most studied whales in the cameras in fixed locations to serve as world, and among the most endanwindows into the lives of the whales. gered orcas, they contend with boat A shack atop a tiny platform on the traffic and human intrusion even in point is the base camp for volunteers their most critical foraging areas, who also document the comings and such as the west side of San Juan goings of the whales and the human Island. activities around them. The northern residents’ sanctuary, Down the coast, more volunteers set aside for feeding, socializing and also are at work at the aptly named enjoying the rubbing beaches, isn’t Eagle Eye Research Station. Reached perfect. Commercial fishermen are with the help of a rope, climbed hand allowed into the sanctuary to pursue over hand up a steep cliff, volunteers sockeye. And adjoining Johnstone here guard the reserve, established Strait remains a major connecting as a sanctuary just for killer whales in waterway between the waters of 1982 by the B.C. government. They Continued on next page > 2000 ’10 74 total southern residents 34 - L pod 22 - J pod 18 - K pod 2018 EMILY M. ENG / THE SEATTLE TIMES < Continued from previous page PHOTOS BY STEVE RINGMAN / THE SEATTLE TIMES A massive cedar, thought to be more than 1,000 years old, grows near OrcaLab. This forest protects the streams that nourish the salmon that feed the orcas. Hanson Island is off-limits to logging and managed by First Nations stewards. CREDITS Reporter: Lynda V. Mapes Photographer: Steve Ringman Project editor: Benjamin Woodard Photo editor: Fred Nelson Videographer: Ramon Dompor Graphic artist: Emily M. Eng Art director: Frank Mina Page designer: Rita Wong Engagement: Sean Quinton, Gina Cole Copy editor: Laura Gordon Pacific white-sided dolphins seem to fly as they skim the surface northeast of Vancouver Island. These waters are teeming with wildlife, including humpback whales, seabirds, dolphins and northern resident orcas. G4 News SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 11, 2018 1R SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 11, 2018 1R News G5 HOSTILE WATERS O R C A S I N P E R I L PHOTOS BY STEVE RINGMAN / THE SEATTLE TIMES, UNDER NMFS PERMIT The tiny dead calf born to J35, or Tahlequah, is seen in this July photo alongside Tahlequah’s head as the mother carries her through the water for an eighth straight day, in Swanson Channel, B.C. Tahlequah clung to the calf, which lived only one half-hour, for at least 17 days and more than 1,000 miles. Her tragic journey raised worldwide dismay at the orcas’ plight. sealants, inks and lubricants. Today PCBs still leach, leak, dissipate into Southeast Alaska and the Salish Sea. the atmosphere and contaminate Sure enough: A cruise ship sudrunoff during rainfall. denly comes into view, five stories Southern residents are at more high, blocking sight of the glittering grave risk of health effects from PCBs waters of the strait. It seems spectacand other toxics than the northern ularly out of place, an emissary from orcas, the study found, because the the lands and waters to the south — southern residents live in more polwhere, amid millions of people, the luted waters. southern residents try to live and Toxics also are more dangerous for cope. them because they don’t have enough to eat. When they go hungry, Congested home waters orcas burn their fat, releasing toxics It was these hostile waters through into their bloodstream. And too often which Tahlequah swam, carrying her the southern residents do go hungry because the chinook salmon they eat sad burden day after day. She swam are threatened with extinction, just south of Vancouver, past the coal like them. docks piled high and ghosting black Tahlequah swam alone, her pod in dust into the water. She swam through busy shipping lanes in Haro hearing distance but not in sight. She swam slowly, perhaps with exhausStrait, amid oceangoing container tion, and her dives shortened in their ships and oil tankers towering over arc as she worked to hold on to her her. She swam through busy boat traffic, including commercial whale- calf. Despite the sunset light, glowing on the rocks in Swanson Channel on watch boats that make millions of an evening in July, this was not that dollars every season. Vessel noise typical orca postcard photo, but the masks the sounds the orcas use to searing sight of an animal struggling find their food, adding to their trouto hang on in a battle with extinction. bles. To be sure, the northern residents She and her family contend with are still a threatened species, and other threats to their survival too: have troubles of their own. But the toxics that seep into the food chain, southern residents always have had then into whale mothers’ milk. A recent study predicted a global killer- the short end of the stick, said Jared whale population collapse because of Towers, a killer-whale expert with Fisheries and Oceans Canada who polychlorinated biphenyls, or PCBs, has studied both populations. in the orcas’ food chain. A group of Northern resident orcas have a far toxic, man-made chemicals, PCBs more diverse array of salmon runs were banned from manufacture in from which to choose, including the U.S. in 1979, but are still ubiquiWashington-spawned chinook as tous in the environment. those salmon mature and travel in PCBs were used around the world for decades, primarily to insulate and northern waters. They pick them off before the southern residents ever cool electrical equipment and preget their chance. vent electrical fires. They were also But for thousands of years, the used in hydraulic systems, lighting and cable insulation, paint, caulking, See > ORCAS, G6 < Continued from previous page The southern residents draw a crowd anywhere they go. Here, ferry passengers enjoy a chance encounter near Friday Harbor. Such sweet slices of life in the Northwest are becoming more rare. Massive alteration of the Puget Sound ecosystem has destroyed habitat and reduced chinook salmon runs — the primary food for resident orcas. Other human factors also hurt the southern residents’ reproduction: industrial pollution, such as from the Superfund site in the Duwamish River, above, and shipping noise that disrupts their hunt for food. TAKEN UNDER NMFS PERMIT 17344 With their spectacular athleticism and grace, the southern residents have long delighted the region, where they have ruled for thousands of years as the top ocean predator. 1 R 21114 G6 News SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 11, 2018 1R HOSTILE WATERS O R C A S I N P E R I L STEVE RINGMAN / THE SEATTLE TIMES, TAKEN UNDER NMFS PERMIT 17344 Mount Baker provides a spectacular backdrop for a southern resident orca surging out of the water in an impressive leap. Orcas can swim 75 miles a day and more, with bursts of speed up to 30 mph, and are capable of diving deeper than 3,000 feet. WHAT WE’RE READING ABOUT ORCAS “Orca: How We Came to Know and Love the Ocean’s Greatest Predator,” Jason Colby, Oxford University Press, 2018. “Orca: The Whale Called Killer,” Erich Hoyt, Camden House Publishing, 1981. “Of Orcas and Men: What Killer Whales Can Teach Us,” David Neiwert, The Overlook Press, 2015. “Puget Sound Whales for Sale: The Fight to End Orca Hunting,” Sandra Pollard, The History Press, 2014. “Beyond Words: What Animals Think and Feel,” Carl Safina, Henry Holt and Company, 2015. “The Nature of Borders: Salmon, Boundaries, and Bandits on the Salish Sea,” Lissa K. Wadewitz, University of Washington Press, 2012. dents’ terrible summer of losses. “I look at 2018, and I hope this is the southern residents still thrived until low point,” Thom said. “The clock is their habitat and food supply were running out on killer whale recovery, diminished. and it is heart-wrenching to see.” The main limiting factors for the In response, Gov. Jay Inslee has southern residents are the reduction convened a task force on orca recovof the quality of their habitat and ery, meeting now to devise recominadequate food within their primary mendations due Nov. 16 for this range, Towers said. legislative session. Whether those The southern residents’ short end efforts will result in the far-reaching of the stick is getting shorter as they changes the orcas need — from struggle in some of the most urban cleaner water to quieter foraging and waters for their kind anywhere in the more chinook — is yet to be seen. world. The southern residents today As winter looms, scientists’ drone are critically endangered, with only photography shows several of the 74 left. southern residents are looking thinBarry Thom, regional administraner than they were at the start of tor for NOAA Fisheries West Coast their seasonal year in the Salish Sea Region, faced an angry crowd at a — a bad way to start the leanest seapublic hearing in Friday Harbor in son of all. September, after the southern resiThere is hope in at least three preg- nancies in the southern resident pods, J, K and L. However, that hope is fragile. Of 35 pregnancies among whales tracked by University of Washington scientists from 2007 to 2014, more than two-thirds failed to produce a live calf. And the losses were probably higher; not every pregnancy is detected. Struggling to survive in hostile waters, the southern residents have not successfully reproduced in three years. To the north, life is so different; 10 new calves were born to orca families there just last year. < Continued from previous page Lynda V. Mapes: 206-464-2515 or lmapes@seattletimes.com; on Twitter: @LyndaVMapes. Lynda specializes in coverage of the environment, natural history, and Native American tribes. Taking aim, veterinarian Martin Haulena of the Vancouver Aquarium delivers a dart full of antibiotics as part of an emergency plan to save J50, a critically ill southern resident killer whale, last summer. — Lynda V. Mapes AN ORCA GLOSSARY: TERMS YOU SHOULD KNOW Orca: The largest member of the dolphin family, with distinct populations in every ocean of the world. Also known as a killer whale. Ecotype or subspecies: Any of the socially and genetically distinct types of orcas, defined by diet, calls and social organization. In the North Pacific, the three ecotypes are resident, transient and offshore. Population or community: The resident orca ecotype is divided into northern and southern populations — extended families of several pods. While they do overlap in geographic range, share the same diet and have similar cultures, the two populations do not interact or interbreed. The southern resident population consists of the J, K and L pods. Pod: A group of several related matrilines that spend time together and share a unique dialect. Matriline: The oldest female in a family and her offspring. Culture: Learned habits by which orcas create and maintain their societies, including rules passed down between generations as to diet, dialect, socialization and breeding. Salmon run: A genetic strain of salmon unique to a place. COURTESY OF MARTIN Chinook: The largest salmon in the Salish Sea, also called king salmon. HAULENA Salish Sea: The Salish Sea is the name officially designated in 2009 for the Canadian-U. S. trans-boundary waters of the Strait of Georgia, the Strait of Juan de Fuca, Puget Sound and the San Juan Islands. Puget Sound: There are many definitions for this geographic designation. The Washington State Legislature’s is the most comprehensive, defining Puget Sound as the inland salt waters of the state of Washington inside the international boundary line between Washington and British Columbia, and lying east of the junction of the Pacific Ocean and the Strait of Juan de Fuca, plus all the rivers and streams draining to these waters. The definition is intended to emphasize the interconnection between the freshwater and the saltwater ecosystems and the animals that migrate between them, including salmon. KATY FOSTER / NOAA FISHERIES, UNDER PERMIT 18786-03 Despite an unprecedented international rescue effort, J50 wasted away and died. This is one of the last known photos of the 3-year-old female, taken Sept. 7. The so-called “peanut head,” shown here, is a deformation caused by starvation. A plan to temporarily capture her for diagnosis and treament was never implemented. — Lynda V. Mapes 1R SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 11, 2018 MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR MORNINGS. Delivered bright and early weekday Deliv ne mornings, this newsletter provides a o quick overview of top stories and needto-kno o-know news, along with intriguing phot and water-cooler-worthy items photos you u might otherwise miss. ST.Ne Visit ST.News/MorningBrief News G7 G8 News SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 11, 2018 1R A PUBLIC SERVICE MESSAGE FROM THE SEATTLE TIMES PUBLIC SERVICE JOURNALISM IS ALIVE AND WELL IN OUR COMMUNITY The Seattle Times has become a national leader in developing community funding for high-impact public service journalism. It began in 2011 with The Greater Good Campaign to stop the defunding of Washington’s higher education system. With the support of our enlightened and committed community, we have since pioneered major solutions journalism projects, such as Education Lab, Traffic Lab and Project Homeless. These major initiatives have been complemented by smaller, but impactful efforts like “Young and Homeless: A Seattle Times Opinion Project” in 2016. Community funders include local foundations, institutions, businesses and individuals who value real news from a local and independent news media organization. Following is a monthly report recognizing the current community funders of innovative journalism. Please join us in expressing appreciation to them for helping ensure a vibrant free press in our state. LOCALLY/REGIONALLY BASED SUPPORTERS Alaska Airlines BECU Bill & Melinda Gates Foundation Campion Foundation CenturyLink City University of Seattle Kemper Development Company NHL Seattle Paul G. 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